Owned by a branch of the Shor family, the Arza winery was founded in 1847 and until recently produced primarily Kiddush wines for the ultra-orthodox. Despite producing several million bottles of wine annually, these wines had little if any interest for sophisticated wine consumers and because of that the winery has not, until now, been included in my books. Nor have their wines been reviewed by me in my columns in HaAretz. What has changed is that with Philippe Lichtenstein now serving as senior winemaker, Arza is now in the process of making major changes in a move to appeal to an increasingly sophisticated audience.

On Sunday (7 March), I met in Tel Aviv with Philippe whom I have known for many years as he was formerly in charge of the Carmel winery at Zichron Ya'akov, and with Elchanan Shor. As was demonstrated during my tasting, Arza is now moving comfortably into the 21st century of winemaking. As Elchanan Shor put it in an email to me: "we perceive the wines …as works in progress". Progress is certainly and gladly noted and Arza will find a place in both my Israeli and Kosher wine guides this coming year.

The winery relies now primarily on Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Carignan, Argaman, Emerald Riesling, Muscat and French Colombard grapes, those sourced from selected vineyards.

It should be noted that many of the Arza wines will continue to be in the "Kiddush wine" category. For the present moment, production of the new table wines will be of several hundred thousand bottles annually. When perusing the tasting notes that follow, be sure to read those from the 2009 barrel tastings.

My thanks to both Philippe and Elchanan for coming to Tel Aviv to meet me, for their good company and for a fine tasting.

Best
Rogov

Arza, Muskat, Cadenza, 2009: Semi-sweet, golden straw in color, with the clean floral aromas associated with the Muscat grape, the sweetness modified nicely by lively acidity. On the nose and palate pineapple and citrus peel notes. A good entry-level quaffer. Drink now. NIS 22. Score 84. K

Arza, Hallel, 2009: A half-dry red wine, a blend of Carignan, Argaman and Merlot (53%, 30% and 17% respectively). Garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins, a soft, round wine showing primarily raspberry and strawberry fruits, with the sweetness of the wine set off by good balancing acidity. A good transition for those making their way from sweet to dry wines. Drink now. NIS 25. Score 83. K

Arza, Blended Red, Cadenza, 2009: A dry blend of Carignan, Argaman and Merlot, medium-bodied, with soft tannins. Ruby towards garnet, with a clean, fruity nose. Light- to medium-bodied with soft tannins and a bare hint of oak, showing appealing red berry and cassis fruits. Finishes with a gentle note of red licorice. Drink now. NIS 22. Score 83. K

Arza, Merlot, Charisma, 2008: Garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with somewhat stinging tannins perhaps to settle in, perhaps not and dusty wood notes from the use of oak chips. Opens to show generous red fruits on a lightly pepper background. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 82. K

Arza, Cabernet Sauvignon, Charisma, 2008: Dark garnet towards royal purple, showing soft tannins and traditional Cabernet fruits. On the nose and palate black currants, blackberries and a note of kirsch liqueur, all on a light peppery and minted background. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 86. K

Arza, Shiraz, Charisma, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Super-dark garnet, developing in a combination of 3-4 year old French and new American barriques. Medium- to full-bodied, softly tannic, with a clean, aromatic nose and opening to reveal red plum and cassis fruits, those showing light hints of saddle leather. Not Australian, and not Rhone but distinctly Mediterranean. Drink from release-2013, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 86-88. K

Arza, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 (Barrel Tastings): Tasted from components. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, developing in new French oak. Medium- to full-bodied with softly caressing tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely and opening to show wild berry, blackcurrant and purple plums on a background of dark chocolate and green olives. Long and generous. Best 2011-2014. Tentative Score 87-89.K