This morning found me on Kibbutz Eyal in the Sharon region to do a series of tastings at the Avidan winery. Founded in 2000 by Shlomo and Tsina Avidan with Tsina as the winemaker, this boutique winery relies on Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Aragman, and Merlot grapes selected from various vineyards in the Judean Hills, and is currently producing about 30,000 bottles annually. With major expansion and modernization now completed, wines are released in several series—the age-worthy Premium and Reserve wines and the varietal Avidan, Blend des Noirs and Petite Soleil, meant for earlier consumption. A relatively new series is "Fringe", has also been introduced, that so named because the blends are both playful and unusual.

This was a most rewarding tasting as critics enjoy nothing more than visiting wineries whose wines make a distinct step up in quality and charm from year to year. My thanks to winemaker Tsina Avidan and to Shira Avidan who is responsible for sales and client relationships for the winery for a fine tasting, their charming company, their courtesies during my visit and a fine tasting. After today's tasting Avidan moves comfortably from three to four stars in my Israeli wine guide.

My tasting notes follow. Several of the wines were re-tasted on my return home this afternoon.


Premium

Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Light garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a gentle wood influence, showing good concentration for the vintage. On the nose and palate rhubarb, cherry and spice flavors, those lingering nicely. Bright, silky and appealing. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2007: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Medium-dark garnet in color, made from 30-year-old low yield vines, showing fine concentration and intensity. Medium- to full-bodied (perhaps leaning toward the full), with gently caressing tannins showing black cherry, wild berry, blueberry and peppery aromas and flavors. Drink now–2013, perhaps longer. Score 88. (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2010)


Fringe


Avidan, Grenache, Fringe, 2007: An unusual but successful blend of 85% Carignan, 10% Tempranillo and 5% Petite Sirah. Medium- to full-bodied, soft and open-textrured, reflecting its 16 months in barriques with soft tannins asd a gentle note of spicy wood. On the nose and palate plum, wild berry and notes of spices that linger nicely. Drink now-2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Prio, Fringe, 2007: The name inspired by a visit to Spain's Priorat region. Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins, a blend of 40% Carignan, 30% Grenache and 15% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Oak-aged for 24 months but showing gentle spicy cedar wood influences. On first attack blackberries, those followed by cassis and purple plums, all set on a background of truffles and bakers' chocolate. As this one develops look as well for notes of saddle leather and espresso coffee. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2017. Score 90. (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Petit Rosé, Fringe, 2009: Deep rose petal pink towards salmon colored, a blend of Pinot Noir, Grenache and Carignan. Opens with a tutti-frutti, almost bubble-gum nose but that passes quickly and with a smile to reveal a light- to medium bodied, lively and crisp rosé with hints of light tannins to complement strawberry, cranberry and blueberry notes. As good a bet with fish and seafood as with 350 gram hamburgers. Drink now. Score 88. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)


Blend de Noirs

For those not familiar with Hebrew – segol = purple, katom = orange; adom = red.

Avidan, Tagsegol, Blend de Noirs, 2008 (Advance Tasting): A blend of Merlot, Shiraz, Petite Sirah and Carignan (40%, 25%, 20% and 15% respectively), those aged in French and American oak for 12 months. Opens with a nose of clean black fruits, goes on to reveal itself as medium- to full bodied, with gently gripping tannins and opening to show wild berry, currant, plum and citrus peel, those on a lightly spicy and long-lingering finish. Drink now-2014. Score 90. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Tagsegol, Blend de Noirs, 2007: An identical blend to the 2008 wine (reviewed above), showing dark garnet towards royal purple, with generous wild berries on the nose and opening in the glass to show medium- to full-bodied, with its youthfully firm tannins now integrating nicely. On the nose and palate currant and black cherry fruits on a spicy oak background, all coming to a long finish on which the tannins and fruits rise together. Drink now-2013. Score 89. (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Tagkatom, Blend de Noirs, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet with orange reflections, medium- to full-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and notes of spicy wood parting to reveal generous currant, wild berry and purple plum notes, those on a light earthy-mineral background. Drink now-2013. Score 89. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Tagadom, Blend de Noirs, 2008: Another of Avidan's perhaps odd but quite successful blends, this one of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot (35%, 30%, 20% and 15% respectively). Dark, almost impenetrable garnet towards royal purple, with soft tannins and a gentle wood influence. Opens in the glass to reveal generous purple plum, black cherry and cassis fruits, those on a background that hints at one moment of licorice and at another of minted chocolate. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Tagadom, Blend de Noirs, (Red Label), 2007: Oak-aged for 12 months, this medium-bodied blend of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (45%, 35% and 20% respectively), shows super-dark garnet in color. Opens with a fresh, black fruit nose, and goes on in the glass to reveal currants and raspberries, those supported by hints of mint, licorice and espresso coffee. Soft and gently mouth-coating tannins rise comfortably on the finish. Drink now–2012. Score 88. (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan


Avidan, Shiraz, 2007: Developed in American oak, full-bodied, with firm tannins and moderately generous wood and alcohol that make themselves clearly felt. Opens with a somewhat medicinal aroma but that blows off quickly to reveal plum, wild berry, licorice notes and leathery notes. Drink now-2012. Score 86. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Grenache-Mourvedre, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre. Dark garnet, full-bodied with soft tannins integrating nicely showing raspberry, cherry and floral notes. Has the potential to be a polished and subtle wine. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Full Wine, Fringe, 2008: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Super-dark garnet, a medium- to full-bodied, generously tannic blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Petite Sirah. Opens with a nose of freshly turned earth, that integrating nicely in the glass and opening to reveal generous blackberry and citrus peel notes, those supported by notes of black pepper and tar. Long and generous, oak-aged for 12 months, approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Re-tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Mor, 2006: Made by the recioto method – that is to say, by drying the grapes on mats before pressing them – a blend of Shiraz, Grenache and Merlot grapes showing currant and prune notes, those on a full-bodied background that is rich, dense and silky. Delicious, opulent and harmonious with fresh fruit notes that linger on and on. Drink now-2013. Score 92. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)



Additional Barrel Tastings

Avidan, Pinot Noir, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Tight and concentrated, darker, more full-bodied and more tannic than one expects from a Pinot Noir. On the nose and palate dried berries and currants, mint and sage and a bit heavy on its herbal presence. Not at all a typical Pinot but will surely have its fans. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Shiraz, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Impenetrably dark royal purple in color, full-bodied, with generous tannins and a moderate hand with spicy wood, those integrating nicely now to show peppery plum, mint, licorice and leathery notes. Destined to be a gentle blockbuster but needs time for its elements to come together. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Petit Verdot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet in color, with near-sweet, gently gripping tannins and an appealing overlay of spicy oak parting to reveal fresh and dried currants, black cherries and citrus peel notes, all coming together as a long, generous and coherent whole. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Argaman, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): After all of the bad things I have said about the Argaman grape this was the big surprise of the tasting. Medium- perhaps medium-to full-bodied, super-dark purple in color, with gently mouth-coating tannins and notes of spicy oak parting to show generous red and black berries along with an earthy-mineral note. Had I tasted this one blind I would have been thoroughly confused, perhaps thinking of something between Tempranillo and Sangiovese. Lord, would I have been wrong. An interesting wine and one I intend to follow with care. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Merlot, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): I continue to suggest that the somewhat schizophrenic 2009 harvest is going to prove more than anything the year of Merlot. Deep garnet with orange and purple reflections, showing a rich red fruit and floral nose. Full-bodied, with gripping tannins only now starting to settle down and opening to reveal generous red fruits, spices and Mediterranean herbs, those on a background that hints at one moment of bitter-sweet chocolate and at another of mocha. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)

Avidan, Petite Sirah, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Aromatic, opening with a pleasing smoky, peppery and sawdust nose, those making way for aromas and flavors of raspberry an black fruits. Full-bodied, with firm, gripping tannins and notes of cedar wood, an aromatic wine showing complexity and fine focus. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 28 Mar 2010)