On Monday (15 Feb 2010), I paid my annual visit to the Binyamina Winery for barrel, advance and re-tastings. Let me start my comments with the suggestion that all of us forget just about everything we thought we knew about Binyamina of the past, for this is now a winery well worth taking very seriously indeed.

With an enormous investment being made in equipment, modernization of the winery and vineyards, there is little that cannot impress positively. Literally dozens of new stainless steel vats in a variety of sizes and some even compartmentalized, with new roto-fermenters in place for lower series wines, and with far more attention to detail as to what is happening in the vineyards, the winery plans to grow from a current annual output of about 2.6 million to 5 million bottes within the next five years. Even more important than becoming a state-of-the-art facility, the major concern is clearly in a two-fold direction – ever increasing quality levels and, no less critical, the issue of value for money.

Much of what has been happening at Binyamina is due to the 2008 purchase of the winery by the Chetzi Chinam chain of supermarkets. If the truth be told, when I first heard about this takeover, I was concerned that we might see far more focus on low-level wines and less on quality. That fear has been completely laid to rest, however, for the owners are obviously willing to place very large sums of cash into the physical plant and the vineyards all while encouraging the winery to continue its stress on quality. If a further truth be told, much of the credit must be given to CEO Ilan Hasson. When Hasson entered his role, nearly eleven years ago, he was the youngest ever CEO of a major winery. During his tenure he has earned the respect not only of others in the wine industry but also of wine critics. As do the owners of the winery, he also realizes that no matter how well a winery conducts itself in the business world, a huge part of any success story belongs to the winemakers.

Indeed, the team of senior winemaker Sasson Ben-Aharon and winemaker Assaf Paz is a winning combination, the two with vastly different personalities. On an amusing note to demonstrate the differences between the two, Sasson always eats lightly while Paz can finish off a meal of three first courses and a humongous fillet steak and then go on with no hesitation to two desserts. On a more serious note, despite the differences in their personalities the pair gets along splendidly, each giving his input to the winemaking philosophy of the winery and each showing his particular skills.

The winery releases several series: Avnei Hachoshen, (known on the English language labels as The Chosen and not HaChoshen, the first pronounced with a soft ch, the second as hard), Reserve, Yogev, Tiltan and Teva. In Hebrew, Avnei Hachoshen refers to the precious stones that adorned the vest of the high priest in the days of the Temple*; Tiltan is the Hebrew name for clover, a plant that has three distinct leaves on every branch (the logic being that these wines are blends of three different vintage years); Yogev is the Biblical term for a farmer, in this case a clear bow to the grape-growers; and Teva means nature

For those not familiar with the Hebrew language, the different stones in the Choshen series are: Sapir = Sapphire; Odem = Ruby; Yashfeh = Jasper; Tarshish = Aquamarine; Shoham = Onyx; Leshem = Opal; and Ya'alom= Diamond.

To the wines, following are my tasting notes. Keeping in mind that no winery should be judged entirely on the quality and interest of their top-of-the-line wines, may I suggest paying attention especially to my notes about the wines in the Teva series which now represent some of the best buys in the country. Many of the wines tasted were advance tastings but because they will be appearing on the market within the next few weeks, I have not noted them as such.

My thanks to Ilan, Sasson and Assaf for a fine tasting, their good company and their courtesies during my visit.

Best
Rogov


The White Wines


Binyamina, Chardonnay, Teva, 2009: Unoaked and without having undergone malolactic fermetation, light gold in color, crisp, clean and refreshing, with appealing but not-at-all exaggerated citrus and tropical fruits. Not a complex wine but a very refreshing charmer. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, Yogev, 2009: An unoaked blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay. Pale golden straw in color, with fresh acidity in fine balance with fruits. On the nose and palate citrus and citrus peel, mango and an appealing hint of freshly cut grass. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Unoaked, Reserve, 2009: We've all heard of the color known as "baby pink". The only way I can describe the color of this wine is as an appealing light and gentle "baby green towards gold" and that makes me smile in good ways as this is the color of a good many of the unoaked wines of Petit Chablis when they are released. A lovely combination on the nose and palate of flity minerals, tropical fruits, citrus and pears, those followed by hints of lime that linger nicely. Crisp and refreshing but with just enough complexity to grab the attention Drink now-2011. Score 89. K Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2009: Pale wet straw in color, fully faithful to the variety, opening with notes of grapefruit and lime, those accompanied by notes of stony minerals and yes, even the traditional hints of cat's pee and asparagus. Aromatic and long. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Rose, Yogev, 2009: A comfortable move away from tradition by making this rose from a blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Carignan. Light cherry red in color, light- to medium-bodied, with an abundance of cherry, dried berry and watermelon rind fruits. Look as well for hints of chantrelle mushrooms and spices that linger nicely on the palate. Makes me think of Coteaux de Provence and anything that does that must be good. Drink now. Score 88. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Aromatic Blend, Yogev, 2009: An off-dry blend of French Colombard, Gewurztraminer and Muscat (45%, 40% and 15% respectively), aromatic is certainly the ideal descriptor for this wine which opens with a floral, citrus and dried litchi nose and then goes on to reveal flavours of litchis, grapes and candied citrus peel. Calls to mind "drinking" an orange creamsicle but a bit more acidity would have helped. Needs the right food match. Drink now-2011. Score 85. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, Reserve, 2009: Lithe and refreshing with fine acidity balanced well with grapefruit, floral and spice flavours that are both lively and complex at the same time. Off-dry but with mouthwatering acidity that stands up nicely to the fruits and spices here. Long and generous and will go not only with Asian and North African dishes but on its own as an aperitif. Drink now-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Muscat, Teva, 2009: The color of light straw, as floral as Muscat can be, an off-dry wine with good balancing acidity and showing apricot, mango and tangerine notes. Not complex but a good entry-level quaffer. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Muscato, Teva, 2009: A plump, off-dry white with just a bit of shpritz (call that lightly frizzante if you will), with floral and spicy notes to highlight tropical fruits, ripe apricots and lemon-lime flavours. Enough lively acidity to keep the wine going. As much as it may be heresy, I enjoy such wines with a few ice cubes in them (holds the sweetness back and makes the wine more refreshing). Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2008: With 70% of the wine developed in 300 liter oak barrels (hogsheads) for 8 months and the remainder in stainless steel, a round and polished wine with pear, grapefruit and floral aromas on a mineral-rich background. Generous and long with a lively finish. Drink now-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc-Viognier, Yashfeh, Choshen, 2008: Crisply dry, aromatic and generous, with spicy and mineral-rich citrus flavours. Medium-bodied, with fine balancing acidity and a long, snappy finish. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Shoham, Yogev, 2009: Bright shining gold in color with orange and green reflections. Medium-bodied, opens with notes of gently spicy wood, honeydew and cantaloupe melon, goes on to show lively citrus and, in the background a hint of flinty minerality. Drink now-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)


The Red Wines


Binyamina, Merlot, Teva, 2007: Developed in stainless steel vats with oak staves, deep royal purple, with fine extraction of color and noted but gentle tannins and a light smoky wood influence. Flavors of blackberries, currants and garrigue come together nicely. Medium- to full-bodied, truly reflecting the variety and lingering nicely on the palate. Not overly complex but delicious. Drink now. Score 87. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Shiraz, Merlot, Teva, 2009: Dark royal purple, medium-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins and a bare hint of spicy woody, an easy to drink, soft and round wine happily true to the variety. Look for aromas and flavours of black- and wild berries, saddle leather and earthy minerals that add an appealing Mediterranean touch. Drink now-2012. Score 87. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Teva, 2009: Garnet to royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a hint of smoky wood, those parting to reveal generous blackberry, cassis and light peppery notes. At its best with entrecote steaks of 300 gram burgers. Drink now-2012. Score 88. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Merlot, Reserve, 2007: Deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and notes of spicy oak, those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Opens with raspberry and cherry fruits, those yielding to cassis and wild berry notes, all on a background of roasted herbs and freshly turned earth. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. Score 89 K Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Shiraz, Reserve, 2007: Garnet towards royal purple, medium-bodied but with good concentration. With soft tannins and a gentle wood influence, a smooth, round wine loaded with blackberry and plum fruits, those highlighted by notes of tar and licorice. Approachable and fully enjoyable now but best from 2011-2015. Score 90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Dark garnet, full-bodied, with firm tannins and spicy wood settling in now and opening to show varietally pure blackcurrant, blackberry and spicy notes, those lingering nicely with a hint of chocolate on the finish. Drink now-2014, perhaps somewhat longer. Score 89. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tiltan, 2005-2006-2007: Wines from three vintages, each developed separately in oak before final blending. Opens with rich chocolate notes on the nose, those carrying over to the palate along with ripe black fruits, licorice and an appealing hint of earthy herbaciouenss. Full bodied, with a long finish. Drink now-2014. Score 90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, The Cave, 2006: Don't ask me why (because I will not be able to explain it) but tasting this wine called together nothing more than some of the better Concha y Toro releases from Chile. Whatever, blended with 3% of Petit Verdot, a full-bodied wine, surprisingly soft and round, opening with red fruits that turn in the glass to blackberries and currants. In the background an appealing note of a forest floor after a light rain. Drink now-2014. Score 90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, Sapir, Choshen, 2007: Almost as good as the excellent 2006. Dark garnet, full-bodied and concentrated, showing spicy cedar wood and soft tannins integrating nicely. On the palate blackberries, plums and blueberries, those with a tempting illusion of of sweetness on first attack but that receding as the wine opens and shows black cherries and hints of tobacco and garrigue. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2015. Score 90 K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Syrah, Odem, Choshen, 2007: Blended with a small amount of Viognier, showing deep garnet, reflecting its development in French oak with hints of spicy cedar wood and soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. Full-bodied, soft, round and both spicy and juicy, with a generous array of blueberries, blackberries, black cherries and a mélange of fresh herbal and minty notes that lead to a long finish. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tarshish, Choshen, 2007: Living nicely up to its barrel-tasting promise. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from vineyards on the Golan, dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with its youthful and still firm tannins now settling in now. Opens in the glass to show an appealing array of blackberry and cassis, those complemented nicely by notes of minted chocolate. Long and generous, will show even greater elegance if you let this one cellar for another year or so. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from mid 2011-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah-Petite Verdot, Ya'alom, Choshen, 2007: An identical blend to the 2006 release – 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 20% Petit6e Verdot, thyat developed in new French oak for 20 months. Full-bodied, with still gripping tannins and generous sweet and spicy cedar wood waiting to settle down but showing fine balance that bodes well for the future. On first attack red currants and ripe plums, those yielding gently to black fruits, all sitting comfortably on a light peppery background. Long and generous but needs time. Best from mid-2011-2016. Score 91. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Zinfandel, Reserve, 2008: Dark royal purple, opening with a sweet and floral California Zinfandel nose but then moving on to also show aromas of berries and cherries. Made from 14 year old vines, developed in 300 liter American oak hogsheads, those selected for their extra-fine grain to let the wood remain in fine balance with the fruits. Ripe and rich, with generous blackberry, peppery and sage notes, those followed by a tempting note of licorice that rises on the long finish. Drink now-2014. Score 90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Syrah, Odem, Choshen, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A big full-bodied wine, rich and tannic with generous but not at all overpowering oak. On the nose and palate a fine array of raspberries, plums and chocolate and, from mid-palate rising notes of saddle leather and dark chocolate, all ligering nicely. Best from 2012-2016. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Binyamina, Merlot, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple towards garnet, deep and concentrated, full-bodied and with still firm tannins waiting to settle in. No fear though as this one has the balance and structure needed and will develop very nicely indeed. At this stage aromas and flavors of blackberries, espresso coffee, cedar wood and sage with tannins and fruits rising simultaneously on the long finish. Best 2012-2016. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

Biyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): An aromatic Cabernet, showing mint and chocolate on the nose, both carrying over to the palate on which one will find traditional blackcurrants and blackberries, those complemented by an appealing tarry note. Full-bodied and round with soft tannins integrating nicely. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)

And One Dessert Wine

Binyamia, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, 2008: A delight, with enough botrytis influence to make itself felt nicely and showing traditional Gewurztraminer aromas and flavors Generously sweet but with fine balancing acidity, opens to show litchis, apricots and dried peaches, all on an appealiungly spicy background. Full-bodied enough to be thought of as "thick", but sits lightly and gently on the palate. Best not with dessert but as dessert. Score 92. K (Tasted 15 Feb 2010)