This morning (Thursday, 18 Feb 2010) found me at the Carmel winery in Rishon LeTzion, there to do primarily advance tastings. During my return to Tel Aviv, I reflected on the reality that for the last five years or so I have been saying some very good things about Carmel. Today's tasting gave me no reason to take back any of those positive thoughts and statements. In fact, it remains clear that the Carmel revolution is moving apace and doing just fine.

My tasting took place in the company of senior winemaker Lior Laxer and Adam Montefiore and I thank them both for a good tasting, their good company and even the good hamburgers that we shared after our tasting. My thanks as well to Miriam, the secretary to the winery's CEO for her assistance in arranging my visit.

As to the wines, all of which were advance tastings – some will be released before Passover, others will not be released for another 12-28 months. Good to know what is "on the way"

Best
Rogov


The White Wines


Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Sauvignon grapes, intentionally unoaked. A crisply clean and nicely aromatic wine, light gold in color, with tropical and citrus fruits on a background of stony minerals, citrus peel and a hint of freshly cut grass. Refreshing and with just enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink from release. Score 89. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Viognier, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2009 (Advance Tasting): As is becoming the wont of the winemaker, made entirely from Viognier grapes, this year from the Olive Tree vineyard, some early harvested and others late harvested, and with about 30% developed in oak, the rest in stainless steel. Aromatic, medium-bodied, crisply dry and with lively acidity to highlight aromas and flavors of apricots, white peaches and green apples, all lingering on a long, generous and lightly floral finish. As the wine matures look for notes of crème brulee sneaking gently in. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2009 (Advance Tasting): From the Kayoumi and Sha'al vineyards on the northern Golan, cold-fermented to guard the aromas and flavors. Off-dry, with good balancing acidity and showing peaches, litchis and spices on the nose and palate. Rising on the long finish a bare but tantalizing hints of honey and eucalyptus. Drink from release-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)



The Red Wines

Carmel, Cabernet Franc, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Following precedent, made primarily from Cabernet Franc grapes, those fleshed out with a bit each of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Developed in mostly used barriques for 10 months, dark garnet, with appealing spicy oak on the nose, full-bodied and concentrated, an intense wine opening to reveal its faithfulness to the variety. On the nose and palate raspberries, blackberries and plums, those on background of Mediterranean herbs and what seems one moment to be eucalyptus and the next as mint. Fine balance and structure here. Give this one time to develop. Best 2011-2016. Score 91. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Appellation, Upper Galilee, 2008 (Advance Tasting): 90% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Malbec and Petit Verdot. Oak aged for 14 months, dark garnet, full-bodied, with soft near-sweet tannins and fine balance between those, the wood and the fruits. Forward and ripe but not at all vulgar fruits, those including blackcurrants and blackberries, those supported comfortably by notes of spicy wood, Mediterranean herbs and a hint of bitter-sweet chocolate. Approachable and enjoyable on release but best 2011-2016. Score 90. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Shiraz blended with 2% Viognier and oak-aged for 15 months. True to the Shiraz varietal, super-dark royal purple in color, with generous but gently mouth-coating tannins. On first attack, raspberries and cherries, those parting to make way for blackberry and cassis. In the background and playing nicely on the palate notes of saddle leather, fresh forest-floor and finally, on the long finish a hint of sweet cedar wood. Approachable by 2011 but best 2012-2018. Score 93. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Opens with a deep currant nose, goes on to reveal wild berries, blackberries and cassis fruits, those on a background of mocha, baker's chocolate and, on the long, long finish hints of coffee beans and black pepper. Full-bodied, well extracted and muscular but remarkably round, gentle and elegant. Approachable on release but best 2012-2018, perhaps longer. Score 93. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)


After a short break, that for my definition of "fresh air", I returned to the tasting table to re-taste the reds so far sampled. And then it was on to the 2008 Mediterranean and the 2008 Limited Edition. Okay, let's call the proverbial spade a spade! As the Limited Edition is a well-balanced powerhouse in the Bordeaux tradition, the Mediterranean is, as its name implies, a far more Mediterranean wine, one with no less complexity or depth but with a far more gentle approach. Let's put it this way: As Bordeaux is to Burgundy, so is Limited Edition to Mediterranean.

Carmel, Mediterranean, 2008 (Advance Tasting): A blend this year of 33% Carignan, 24% Shiraz, 23% Petit Verdot, 16% Petite Sirah and 2% each of Malbec and Viognier. Similar to the blend of the 2007 (see the tasting note that follows) and, like that wine oak-aged for 15 months in largely used oak. Deeper, darker and somewhat more full in body and tannins than the 2007 but maintaining its gentle and elegant personality. On the nose and palate wild berries, black cherries and currants, those parting to make way for notes of raspberries. In the background appealing gentle notes of spicy oak and green peppercorns. A round and long wine. Approachable on release but best 2012-2019, perhaps longer. Score 93. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Mediterranean, 2007: My fourth tasting of this wine and my earlier tasting notes hold firmly. Youthful dark garnet towards royal purple, casting orange and violet reflections, a full-bodied blend remarkably gentle blend of 37% Carignan, 26% Shiraz , 20% Petit Verdot and 15% Petite Sirah and 2% Viogner, each fermented separately and developed for 7 months in oak before blending and passing 8 further months in oak. Deeply aromatic, on first attack so full of ripe red and black fruits and then opening to show an appealing array of blackberry, raspberry and cassis notes, those supported nicely by not-at-all imposing notes of smoky oak, black pepper and juniper berries. The wine reflects its time in oak with gentle wood influences and abundant but soft and gently caressing tannins. Round, complex and long. Drinking well now but best from mid-2011-2018. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Limited Edition, Upper Galilee, 2008 (Advance Tasting): From three fine vineyards (Kayoumi, Alma and Ben Zimra), almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, full-bodied, well extracted and muscular with still firm tannins waiting to integrate with spicy wood and fruits. No fear though, for the balance and structure are definitely here, those boding very well for the future. Aged in barriques for 15 months, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Merlot (this year's blend - 60%, 30%, 4%, 4% and 2% respectively). On the nose and palate blackcurrant, purple plums and raspberries, those on a background of roasted herbs, spicy oak and, on the long, long finish an appealing note of garrigue. Approachable on release but best 2012-2020. Scor 93. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)


The Dessert Wines

Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Single Vineyard, Sha'al, Golan, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Ye gods, what a nose! Impacted on by about 15-20% of Botrytis, a beautifully funky honeyed and floral nose. As were earlier releases of this wine, generously sweet but with fine balancing acidity, a complex and generous wine showing clear notes of eucalyptus honey, litchis and dried apricots, all on a just spicy enough background. A heady wine that lingers and lingers, seemingly forever. As I have recommended with earlier releases of this wine, fine for accompanying fruit-based desserts but even better when consumed as dessert. Drink from release-2020. Score 93. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)

Carmel, Vintage, Fortified Petite Sirah, Appellation, Judean Hills, 2007: Reinforced with grape alcohol, made entirely from old vine Petite Sirah grapes, a wine that will make you smile as it calls to mind a fine Tawny Port. With moderate sweetness set off nicely by acidity, the first attack on both nose and palate is absolutely laded with chocolate, that giving way comfortably to notes of fresh grapes and raisins, Brazil nuts and almonds, all with a tantalizing note of bitterness to flesh out the sweetness. Drink from release. Please though, don't ask me for a drinking window with this one as I simply cannot make a guess. Perhaps two years, perhaps ten. Despite that major question mark, a lovely wine, made to go with plates of blue cheese, watermelon and nuts. Score 90. K (Tasted 18 Feb 2010)