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Carmel: Single Vineyard Wines Scoring 93 Points
Author: Daniel Rogov
Published: 07.06.11 | Source: Rogov's Place| Viewed: 961 Times
This afternoon towards evening (Tuesday, 5 July 2011) Carmel hosted a unveiling of three single vineyard wines at their center in Zichron Ya'akov, two of those from from 2008, and one from 2009. Whether it was the influence of "my condition" or the influence of the various medications that I am taking for that condition, I felt unable to attend and be civilized. The good news however is that I have tasted each of these wines at least on one previous occasion, sometimes at the winery, on other occasions in my own tasting room.
Had anyone told me a bit more than a decade ago that Carmel's top wines would be regularly earning scores well into the 90's, I suppose I would have smiled politely. Tell me that today and I will agree, not only with enthusiasm but with multiple compliments to senior winemaker Lior Laxer and his winemaking staff but equally to the CEO and others of the administrative staff. From the point of view of the critic, Carmel has not only become a friendly place to visit but an establishment that is comfortably challenging the best wineries in Israel.
I have tasted four of these wines and those tasting notes follow. I have not yet tasted Carmel's 2010 Johannisberg Riesling from the Kayoumi Vineyard but a bottle will soon be making its way to me for sampling.
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2008: Opens with a deep currant nose, goes on to reveal wild berries, blackberries and cassis fruits, those on a background of mocha, baking chocolate and, on the long, long finish hints of coffee beans and black pepper. Full-bodied, well extracted and muscular but remarkably round, gentle and elegant. Drink now–2018, perhaps longer. Score 93. K
Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2008: Shiraz blended with 2% Viognier and oak-aged for 15 months. True to the Shiraz varietal, super-dark royal purple in color, with generous but gently mouth-coating tannins. On first attack, raspberries and cherries, those parting to make way for blackberry and cassis. In the background and playing nicely on the palate, notes of saddle leather, fresh forest floor and finally, on the long finish, a hint of sweet cedarwood. Drink now–2018. Score 93. K
Carmel, Mediterranean, 2008: A blend this year of 30% Carignan, 25% Shiraz, 23% Petit Verdot, 18% Petite Sirah and 2% each of Malbec and Viognier. Similar to the blend of the 2007 (see the tasting note that follows) and, like that wine, oak-aged for 15 months in largely used oak. Deeper, darker and somewhat more full in body and tannins than the 2007 but maintaining its gentle and elegant personality. On the nose and palate wild berries, black cherries and currants, those parting to make way for notes of raspberries. In the background appealing gentle notes of spicy oak and green peppercorns. A round and long wine. Drink now–2019, perhaps longer. Score 93. K
Carmel, Single Vineyard, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Sha’al, Golan, 2009: Impacted on by about 15–20% of botrytis, a beautifully funky honeyed and floral nose. As were earlier releases of this wine, generously sweet but with fine balancing acidity, a complex and generous wine showing clear notes of eucalyptus honey, litchis and dried apricots, all on a just-spicy-enough background. A heady wine that lingers and lingers, seemingly forever. Drink now–2020. Score 93. K
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