This morning I made my way to the Jerusalem Hills to Moshav Ramat Raziel, there to be greeted by Eli Ben Zaken of the Domaine du Castel.

Starting as a micro-winery, the Domaine du Castel grew gradually and now produces approximately 100,000 bottles annually. Since the release of a mere 600 bottles of his first wine in 1992, owner-winemaker Eli Ben Zaken—who now works with his son Ariel—has consistently made some of the very best wines in the country. The winery, with its exquisitely designed barrel room holding more than 500 barriques, is located on Moshav Ramat Raziel in the Jerusalem Mountains. The winery relies entirely on grapes grown in the area, mostly in its own vineyards, some in vineyards under its full supervision. Grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Chardonnay.

The winery produces three wines annually. The first, Grand Vin Castel, is a superb Bordeaux-style blend; Petit Castel, not so much a "second label" as a parallel-produced wine is meant for earlier drinking; and “C” which has often been one of the most exciting Chardonnay wines produced in Israel. The winery produced a first kosher version of its Grand Vin in 2002, and from the 2003 vintage all of Castel’s wines have been kosher.

No-one has questioned but that the Castel wines have consistently been among the very best in the country. What has been questioned in recent years is the age-worthiness of some of the red wines cellaring well but not for as long as was predicted and hoped for. Advance and re-tastings today showed that with continued development in both production techniques and bottling facilities, the cellaring potential of more recently released wines may well reflect a dramatic increase in aging potential. Sharing a bit of personal experience - with the Grand Vin releases from 2003, I suggest not decanting but opening the bottles 40-45 minutes before serving and then following the wine as it develops in the glass. And, should a wine prove particularly closed on pouring, do not hesitate to take a second glass, to pour the wine back and forth between the glasses several times to give it the "hit of air" that will show the wine at its very best.

My thanks to Eli Ben Zaken and to those of his staff who made my visit and tastings most pleasant and rewarding. What can I say - the combination of good wine, good company and good discussion remains one of the greatest pleasures of life.

Grand Vin Castel

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A deeply aromatic wine, with seductive ripe currant and blackberry flavors. Full-bodied, deeply concentrated but opening on the palate to show true elegance with layer after layer of complexity and depth. With wood in fine balance with near-sweet tannins and fruit flavors that burst forth on the palate, all leading to a long finish on which tannins rise with a tantalizing note of baker's chocolate. Perhaps Castel's best to date. Best starting in 2012. Tentative Score 93-95. (Tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2007 (Advance Tasting): The by now traditional Grand Vin blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, that flushed out with Merlot Petit Verdot Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Full bodied, dark and well extracted, firm on opening but yielding comfortably in the glass to reveal gently caressing tannins, notes of spicy oak and generous blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those supported by notes of mocha, orange peel and black olives. On the super-long finish a tempting note of licorice. Long, generous and coherent. Drink from release-2015. Score 92. (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2006: Showing much as at a previous tasting. A blend focused on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, those flushed out with Petit Verdot and Malbec. Firm, solid and intense, dark garnet in color, full-bodied and firm on first attack but then opening to show a generous array of blackberries, black cherries, currants and dark chocolate. Dense, rich and complex, with hints of near-sweetness that toy comfortably on the palate, with tannins that grip comfortably and in fine balance with wood and fruits. Long and generous, muscular and intense but with a distinct note of elegance. Drink now–2013. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel 2005: Dark toward inky garnet, with just a bit of clearing at the rim, with firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy and smoky oak. Deeply aromatic, opens in the glass to show a nose and palate of black currant, blackberry and purple plum fruits on a background of roasted herbs and near-sweet tobacco. On the long finish hints of citrus peel, anise and cherry-flavored dark chocolate. Drink now–2012. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2004: Dark garnet with the once firm tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood. On the nose and palate currants and blackberries those supported very nicely indeed by notes of raspberries, licorice and tobacco, all lingering long and comfortably on the palate. An elegant wine. Drinking nicely now but don't hesitate to cellar until 2012. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2003: Showing better than at an earlier tasting, the somewhat medicinal-iodine aroma that was there having vanished and now showing a nose of black fruits and smoked meat. Dark garnet and full-bodied, with tannins now gently caressing and opening to reveal currants, wild berries, sweet herbs and a hint of green olives. At its peak now and as this one continues to develop in the bottle expect the fruits to recede and make room for more earthy-herbal notes. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Petit Castel

Castel, Petit Castel, 2007: As always a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Verdot. Oak-aged for 16 months, showing soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy cedar wood notes. On first attack red plums and a hint of garrigue, those yielding comfortably to currants, wild berries and a note of bitter citrus peel. Wood and tannins rise on the finish at this stage. Despite that, drinking very nicely indeed at this stage but best only from mid-2010-2013, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Petit Castel, 2006: Dark garnet, full-bodied, with soft tannins and a gentle spicy wood influence that give the wine a comfortable roundness. Makes me smile as the opening aromas include a distinct note of butterscotch, that yielding to cedary wood and tobacco notes. Showing a generous array of currant, purple plum, bitter-sweet chocolate and sage, the tannins rising on the long and mouth-filling finish. Drink now-2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Petit Castel, 2005: Perhaps the darkest Petit Castel ever. On the nose an appealing hint of spicy wood, that supported by black fruits and then going on to reveal aromas and flavors of red and black berries, black cherries, licorice and bitter-sweet chocolate. As in its youth a tantalizing hint of sweetness on the long finish. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

"C" Chardonnay

Castel, Chardonnay "C", 2008 (Advance Tasting): Shining gold in color, opens with a seductive creamy and vanilla nose, those going on to reveal smoky oak notes. Full-bodied but seems to float on the palate and in the glass opens to reveal apricot, pear, fig and melon aromas and flavors, those supported by finely-tuned acidity and a generous mineral overlay. The longer this sits in the glass themore it shows its depth, complexity and elegance. Delicious even in still unfined state but best from mid-2010-2014, perhaps longer. Score 93. K (Tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Chardonnay "C", 2007: Bright shining gold with green and orange tints, a deeply aromatic wine, showing full-bodied and floral, with gentle notes of oak parting to reveal a deep array of peach, apricot and melon fruits, those supported very nicely indeed by notes of hazelnuts, vanilla and flinty minerals. On the long finish an enchanting note of bitter citrus peel. Drink now-2011, perhaps longer. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Chardonnay "C", 2006: Showing deeper gold than at earlier tastings and continue to show nicely but now clearly at its peak. Opens slowly on the palate, showing a somewhat too heavy wood influence, but beyond that notes of citrus, ripe pears, green apples, hazelnuts, raisins and spices. A concentrated and intense wine but somehow lacking acidity and a bit flat. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)

Castel, Chardonnay "C", 2005: Developed beautifully, still a peaches and cream wine but now in place of the youthful citrus, figs and summer fruits, notes of ripe peaches, pears and toasty oak, all coming together beautifully and leading to a long and elegant finish. Not for further cellaring. Drink now. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 9 Jul 2009)