On Monday 20 July, I left Tel Aviv quite early in the morning to head off to the Galilee to visit a collection of boutique wineries. The specific inspiration for my trip was the upcoming festival "Between the Vineyards" (Bain haCramim), which will take place in the Upper Galilee from Wednesday-Friday (4 – 7 August). I will be posting separately about the festival, one of the features of which will be open houses at many of the area wineries. Even before that post, however, well worth marking your calendars, as the Galilee is always beautiful, there are plenty of wineries well worth visiting, other activities are planned for the festival, there are an abundance of fine places to spend the night……The festival might indeed offer an excellent excuse for a short vacation with or without the children in tow.

More to the point – my own visit took me to five small wineries for tastings and talks with the winemakers. The selection of wineries to visit was my own, wanting especially to visit smaller producers whom I felt a need to re-visit and in several cases for first visits to their wineries. As will be seen, the quality of the wines I tasted varied widely. Best though to let my tasting notes speak for themselves.

My sincere thanks to each of the winemakers who shared their wines and their time with me as well as to Orna Ben Chaim who accompanied me on my trip and even suffered my smoking in her otherwise smoke-free automobile with minimal complaints.

Kadita

My morning opened with a visit to the Kadita Winery. Let it be known that this small winery is located on a property best described as being as close to Mediterranean paradise as one can find. Jonathan Goldman made wines at his home in Bikta Bekadita in the Upper Galilee for several years before he released his first commercial output of 600 bottles in 2001, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Grapes are currently drawn from the winery’s own nearby vineyards and from Kerem Ben Zimra. Annual production is currently 4,000 bottles. Best way to obtain the Kadita wines is by phoning 04 6921963 or by sending an email to <!-- e -->YonatanGoldma@hotmail.com<!-- e -->

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2004: Kadita's traditional blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, oak-aged for 21 months, continuing to show youthful, deep royal-purple, full-bodied, with its generous soft tannins integrated nicely to show ripe but not at all overtipe black and red fruits fruits, Mediterranean herbs, eucalyptus and hints of spicy cedar wood from the oak barrels. Long, concentrated and mouth-filling. Drink now. Score 90. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark, almost intense royal-purple, full-bodied, with once firm tannins and spicy oak now integrating nicely. On the nose and palate an array of blackberry, currant and black cherry fruits matched handsomely by hints of roasted herbs, green olives and, on the long finish, a hint of black licorice. Drink now–2011. Score 90. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Oak-aged for 25 months, full-bodied, intense and concentrated, showing deep, almost inky purple, with still-firm tannins and spicy wood in fine balance with natural acidity and fruits. Opens with aromas and flavors of raspberries and minty chocolate, those yielding to black currants and red plums and finally to a long fruity finish with hints of white chocolate. Best 2011–2015. Score 90. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Showing better than at an earlier barrel tasting. Deeply extracted dark garnet, showing medium- to full-bodied with fine concentration, soft tannins and generous berry, black cherry and currant notes on a background of white pepper, green olives and eucalyptus. Fruits and tannins rise on the finish. Drink from release-2015. Score 91. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Kadita, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from a tentative blend. Aging in French oak, already showing full-bodied, with silky tannins and a generous array of currant, wild berry and citrus peel, those on a background of Mediterranean herbs and white pepper, the tannins and fruits rising in harmony on the long finish. Drink from release- 2016. Score 91. (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Yekev Ben-Zimra (The Ben-Zimra Winery)

The word kerem in Hebrew means "vineyard" and to a great many Israelis seeing that a wine has been made from grapes from Kerem Ben Zimra is a sign of quality. What most do not realize is that Kerem Ben-Zimra is the name of a moshav (a cooperative agricultural community of individually owned enterprises) in the Upper Galilee, and not a single vineyard at all. If the truth be told, while some of the vineyards that make up the hills and valleys of the area are superb and tended by talented vintners, others are rather ordinary.

The winery that carries the name of the community was founded by Yossi Ashkenazi in 2003. With Assaf Kedem now serving as the winemaker, this boutique winery has been producing two wines, a reserve and a regular edition of Cabernet Sauvignon since its inception. The winery’s vineyards, near the moshav at 870 meters above sea level, are among the best in Israel. Current production is about 13,000 bottles and the winery will soon be producing 18 – 20,000 bottles annually. A good bet for finding the wines will be to phone 04-6980056 or to send an email to <!-- e -->ashk_y@netvision.net.il<!-- e -->

Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Deep, almost inky garnet in color, full-bodied, and still firmly tannic but already showing balance and structure that bode well for the future. On the nose and palate traditional blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those complemented by light hints of green olives and dark chocolate, all leading to a long, mouth-filling finish. The best from the winery to date. Drink from release-2013. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Showing better than at an earlier tasting. Oak aged for about 14 months, dark and deep, medium- to full-bodied with good concentration. Somewhat rustic with a touch of heat on the finish, but showing appealing currant, black cherry and berry fruits with hints of anise and spring flowers. Drink now-2011. Score 85. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Blended with 10% Merlot, not complex but smooth and round. Medium- to full-bodied, well balanced with currant, plum and black cherry fruits and a generous spicy overlay from the oak in which it aged for 14 months. Turns dry and picks up a strong cedar wood note on the finish. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: Opens with a bit of bottle stink but that blows away quickly and then opens to show dark garnet toward royal-purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins just starting to settle down, and reflecting its 14 months in barriques with spicy wood. Shows an appealing array of currants, blackberries and eucalyptus, those marred somewhat by a high (15.2%) alcohol level that adds an unwanted sweet note and leads to a hot finish. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Ben-Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Dark and deep, medium- to full-bodied with good concentration. Oak-aged for nine months, somewhat rustic with a touch of heat on the finish, but showing currant, cherry and berry fruits with hints of anise and spring flowers. Simple but pleasant. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir

Among other accomplishments, this trip took me finally to visit the Adir winery. Founded by Avi Rosenberg in 2003 with the release of 1000 wines, now producing 10,000 bottles annually and planning to move to 20,000 the winery sources its grapes from Kerem Ben Zimra. In 2008 this still unknown winery took a good many people by surprise when their 2005 Plato was awarded the "Best Wine In Israel" award at the 2008 Terravino competition. Best way to contact Avi Rosenberg to find out how to purchase these wines is by email to: <!-- e -->conricus@netvision.net.il<!-- e --> My tasting notes follow.

Adir, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, 2007: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a gentle influence of spicy oak, opens to show appealing red berry, cassis and spicy notes. Not long but round and generous. Drink now-2011. Score 88. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir, Merlot, 2007: A blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in some new, some second and third year barriques. Dark, almost impenetrably garnet in color, a deeply extracted medium- to full-bodied wine with gripping tannins and spicy wood in good proportion with black fruits, those on a background of freshly cured tobacco and dried herbs. Technically correct but perhaps best described as "a wine without faults" – in other words, does not come together as a coherent whole and fails to excite. Drink now-2011. Score 86. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Made entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, oak aged in mostly French oak for 12 months. Dark garnet and aromatic on the nose, opens in the glass to show generous blackberry, currant and purple plums, those supported by cedar-wood and spicy notes. Drink now-2011. Score 88. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Deep garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied and deep, with good balance between smoky oak and soft, gently gripping tannins. On the nose and palate blackcurrant and wild berry fruits supported nicely by hints of lead pencil, bitter almonds and cigar tobacco. Drink now-2011. Score 89. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir, Plato, 2005: A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Syrah, aged for 12 months in older oak and then an additional 12 months in new oak. Dark garnet, showing a bit of clearing at the rim, full-bodied, with tannins that continue to be quite firm and a good deal of sweet cedar wood that has never fully integrated, but does open on the palate to show appealing raspberry, red currant and vanilla notes. Starting to show age. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir, Plato, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): An oak-aged blend, Cabernet Sauvignon with about 18% of Syrah, showing medium- to full-bodied, with soft gently caressing tannins. On opening attack raspberry, and cassis notes, those yielding to black- and blueberries on a lightly spicy background. Rich and long. Drink from release-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Opens with a nose of fresh sawdust and spices, those parting to make way for a generous array of cassis, raspberries and roasted herbs. Dark, full-bodied and concentrated. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Adir, Shiraz, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently gripping tannins and rich blackberry and citrus peel on a background of leather. Tannins and spicy notes rise on the finish. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Sifsaf

Founded by Arik Elbaz on Moshav Safsufa in the Upper Galilee, the winery’s own vineyards contain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Production is about 15,000 bottles annually. Although the labels on the Sifsaf bottles state a given vintage year, the owner/winemaker acknowledges that because labels are expensive, he may at times use the same label for more than one year, which makes it impossible to know precisely which wine one is purchasing.

Sifsaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Oak aged for about 8 months, blended with 20% Syrah, remains as at a previous tasting, not so much fruity as it is dominated by aromas and flavors of sawdust, dill and apple vinegar. Unacceptable. Score 50. K
Sifsaf, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied, with chunky, almost coarse country-style tannins. Shows jammy black fruits and hints of spices. Not typical of the variety and showing an unwanted note of sweetness as well as a not-at-all-delicate touch of Brett. Score 68. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Sifsaf, Nebbiolo, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Still in the barrel and already showing a devastating quantity of Brettanomyces that whatever fruits are here are hidden by mousy and metallic aromas and flavors that. Unacceptable. Score 50. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Sifsaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins and generous spicy oak waiting to settle down, those somewhat hiding the black fruits that try hard to make themselves felt. Drink from release. Tentative Score 75-77. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Sifsaf, Merlot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, with chunky tannins, and opening to show spicy, near-sweet black fruits. A simple country-style wine. Drink from release. Tentative Score 75-77. K. (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)
Sifsaf, Sangiovese, 2008 ( Barrel Tasting): Dusty garnet in color, medium-bodied, with a decided note of grape vinegar. Unapproachable. Score 50. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Sifsaf, Cabernet Franc,2008 (Barrel Tasting): Cloudy dark purple in color, medium- to full-bodied and even at this early stage dominated by mousy and metallic notes that typify Brettanomyces. Score 50. K (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Nachal Amud

Established by Avi Abu in 1998 and located on Moshav Kfar Shamai near Safed in the Upper Galilee, the winery draws on grapes from its own vineyards, those including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Merlot and Petite Sirah. Current production is about 8,000 bottles annually.

Nachal Amud, Blended Red, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Medium- to full-bodied, with chunky country-style tannins, opens with a medicinal and tarry nose that lingers throughout. Far too acidic and earthy. Tentative Score 55-60. (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Nachal Amud, Blended Red, 2007: A blend of 60% Sangiovese and 20% each Cabernet Sauvignonand Merlot. Oak-aged for 12 months, a clean, fresh, distinctly Mediterranean country-style wine, medium-bodied, with generous red fruits and soft tannins. A good quaffer, especially when served lightly chilled. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Nachal Amud, Blended Red, 2004: Made from the winery's grapes but at the Benhaim winery and of precisely the same blend (60% Petite Sirah and 40% Merlot) that was used in that winery's La Petite Sira. Oak aged for 12 months, dark garnet, medium-bodied with light tannns and generous black fruit. A simple little wine, still alive and well but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 82. (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Nachal Amud, Blended Red, 2003: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, firmly tannic, with plum and currant fruits pushed into the background by unwanted medicinal and earthy aromas and flavors. Well past its peak. Drink up. Score 70. K (Re-tasted 20 Jul 2009)

Nachal Amud, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Oak aged for 18 months, a medium- to full-bodied red, its tannins and wood now fully integrated and continuing to show some blackberry and currant fruits. Past its peak. Drink up. Score 70. (Tasted 20 Jul 2009)