Yesterday morning (Wednesday, 9 March), I made my way to the Flam Winery for barrel, advance and re-tastings. Espresso coffee awaited and that is important but even more important is that this is a winery that strives for and attains elegance in its wines. Flam comfortably maintains its five stars in my books and remains one of the very best wineries in the country.

Located in a state-of-the-art facility not far from the town of Beit Shemesh at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains, the Flam winery has produced consistently excellent and exciting wines since its first releases from the 1998 vintage. Established by brothers Golan and Gilad Flam; Golan, having trained and worked in Australia and Tuscany, is the winemaker; Gilad is in charge of the business aspects. Also working with the two brothers is their father, Israel Flam, who was for many years the senior winemaker at Carmel.

The winery is currently producing age-worthy varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines in their Reserve and Superiore series; a second wine, Classico, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that is meant for relatively early drinking; and a label for white wine, Flam. The winery is also just now releasing its first rose wine, that from the 2009 vintage. Current production is about 120,000 bottles annually. Of those about 15,000 are white wines.

Grapes come primarily from vineyards over which the winery has full control, in the Judean Mountains and the Galilee. In addition to current reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, other varieties including Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Mourvedre are soon to come on line.

Many have asked whether Flam will be "going kosher". Although the issue is under serious consideration no firm decision has yet been made. Those who consider it important might get in their proverbial "two cents" by sending an email to golan@flamwinery.com

My thanks to the Flams, fils, mere et pere for a fine tasting and their courtesies during my visit.

Among others wines my tastings included verticals of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot Reserves from the vintages of 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 and 2005. Several of the already released wines were also re-tasted on return to my own tasting room.

Best
Rogov

Cabernet Sauvignon

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, promising to be dark garnet to royal purple, full bodied with soft tannins. On the nose black fruits and freshly cut herbs, those opening to blackcurrant and wild berry fruits as well as a note of clean forest floor on the finish. Best from 2013. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Close to but not a fully finalized blend, and continuing to show as it did at an earlier barrel tasting. Almost impenetrably dark garnet, full-bodied, with generous but silky smooth tannins. On the nose wild berries and citrus flowers, opening in the glass to show traditional Cabernet blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those unfolding to show notes of spiced plums and a tantalizing hint of garrigue. Approachable on release but best from 2012-2020. Tentative Score 93-95. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: A blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, oak aged for 16 months and showing gently caressing tannins and a not-at-all imposing note of spicy cedar wood. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, full bodied, opening to reveal ripe berry, currant and citrus peel notes on first attack, those yielding to Mediterranean herbs and notes of licorice. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2015, perhaps longer. Score 91. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Oak-aged for about 16 months, a full-bodied, gently tannic and concentrated blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, with soft, near-sweet tannins and notes of spicy wood, opens with a mélange of black cherry, blackberry and currant notes, and reveals hints of red berries. brown spices and chocolate. Long, broad and elegant. Drink now-–2015. Score 92. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005: The first thing to hit you (albeit a rather nice blow) is the bitter-sweet chocolate on the nose and only then spicy oak, now settled down comfortably from earlier tastings. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon with 6% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot, opening firm and gripping but yielding nicely in the glass to show a complex array of blackcurrant, black cherry, anise and Mediterranean herbs and, on the long finish, hints of greenolives. Drink now-2014. Score 93. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

And then, at my request:

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2001: Holding its own very nicely indeed and showing every bit as well as at earlier tastings. Super dark royal purple towards garnet, deeply extracted but with its once firm wood and generous tannins now integrated nicely. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet blackcurrant and blackberries along with notes of ripe berries, black olives and leather. Drink now-2013. Score 93. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Merlot

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components from the Dishon and Ben Zimra vineyards in the Upper Galilee. A blockbuster but a gentle blockbuster, with still gripping tannins and spicy wood already making themselves felt and needing only time to settle in. On the nose and palate a tempting array of wild berry, black cherry and currant fruits, those complemented nicely by notes of roasted herbs and earthy minerals. Best from release-2016. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Close to but not yet a final blend at 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon that was oak aged for 15 months. Super dark, with notes of peppermint and spring flowers on the nose, opening to reveal full-body, gently caressing tannins and black cherry and cassis fruits, those on a lightly spicy and earthy background. Best from 2011-2017. Tentative Score 91-93. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2007: Oak aged for 15 months, a full-bodied blend of 92% Merlot and 4% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot with the firm tannins and spicy wood of youth now integrating nicely. Opens with a generous array of blackberries, blueberries and cigar box aromas and flavors, those leading to a long finish on which bittersweet chocolate and cherry liqueur. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2016. Score 91. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Dark garnet, full-bodied, with firm tannins and generous oak in fine balance with fruits and acidity but still needing a bit of time for its elements to fully integrate. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Opens in the glass to show a fine array of raspberry, blueberry and cassis fruits, those on a background of espresso coffee and sweet cedar. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2016. Score 92. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark garnet toward royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its oak aging with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and notes of spicy wood. Look for a tempting light earthiness that supports blackberries, currants, and a touch of spiciness that weaves its way through the wine and then lingers nicely on a long, elegant finish. Drink now–2013. Score 92. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

One White and One Rose

Flam, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, 2009: As always an unoaked, crisply clean wine, this year a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Chardonnay. Golden straw in color, medium-bodied, showing citrus fruits and flowers, stony minerals and from mid-palate on notes of guava. Refreshing enough to drink in large gulps but complex enough to savor comfortably. Drink now-2011. Score 89. (Tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Rosé, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Oh what a lovely rosé! A blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot, those allowed only short skin contact, showing cherry red in color and on the nose and palate red cherries, raspberries and cassis fruits. Fresh, lively and crisp, with an appealing flinty mineral note that lingers nicely. Drink from release. Score 89. (Tasted 9 Mar 2010)

And Several More Barrel Tastings

Flam, Syrah, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): More and elegant Rhone than a blockbuster Australian or Californian, showing medium-dark garnet, full-bodied, with soft tannins and a gentle wood influence. Opens to reveal plum, blackberry and nutty aromas and flavors. Potentially a round and elegant wine. Drink from release. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Syrah, Reserve, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Developed in 80% 1st and 2nd year French oak and 20% new American oak, shows full-bodied, well concentrated and round, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and spicy and vanilla notes integrating nicely. Aromatic and on the nose and palate red fruits, leather, roasted herbs and a tempting notes of mocha and bakers' chocolate. Approachable and enjoyable early but will show its true elegance from 2012-2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. (Re-tasted 9 Mar 2010)

Flam, Cabernet Franc, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Almost surely destined as a blending agent, now developing in 3 year old oak and showing full-bodied, round and delicious with black fruits, chocolate and notes of earthy minerals. Delicious. Would love to see this as a varietal.

Flam, Petit Verdot, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, simultaneously concentrated and gentle, intense and elegant, showing generous black fruits, spices and herbal notes along with an appealing touch of sweet green peppers. Destined as a component for the reserve wines. Lovely.

As to the invariable question – prices in Israel for wines recently released or scheduled to be released in the near future.

Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2007 – NIS 160
Syrah Reserve, 2008 – NIS 110
Sauvignon-Chardonnay, 2009 – NIS 75
Rosé 2009 – NIS 85

My opinion on the prices – and especially considering some of the outrageous prices asked these days for far lesser wines from some of the boutique wineries – in each case excellent value for money.