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Golan Heights Winery: Two New Single Vineyard Releases (K)
Author: Daniel Rogov
Published: 03.10.10 | Source: Rogov's Place| Viewed: 1787 Times
The Book of Isaiah tells us that there is "no rest for the wicked" and both Lenny Bruce and Woody Allen reminded us that there is "no rest for the weary". I don't consider myself particularly wicked but lawsy, lawsy, I do find myself getting weary from time to time. Perhaps "pooped" might be a better expression but who after all, are we to argue about words.
No more complaining though, for today, as weary or pooped as I may have been, I found myself in Rosh Pina for a most rewarding official unveiling of two of the single vineyard wines of the Golan Heights Winery.
The wines, both from the Odem organic vineyard and both now being released are the 2008 Yarden Chardonnay and the 2006 Yarden Merlot. In addition to tasting those in the presence of CEO Anat Rushansky, senior winemaker Victor Schoenfeld and Shlomo Tzadok who is responsible for the vineyards, we also sampled from the 2003, 2005 and 2007 Odem Chardonnays. Following the tasting a fine meal was enjoyed at chef Chaim Tibi's always excellent Muscat restaurant.
My thanks to all from the winery and from the restaurant for a fine tasting and event. I must add, by the way, that I find both of these new releases excellent value for money.
Best
Rogov
Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2006: Developed in French barriques, 2/3 of which were new for 14 months, showing much as at an advance tasting. Dark, almost inky purple in color, with gently mouth-coating tannins and sweet and smoky oak and black cherries on the first attack, those parting comfortably to reveal blackcurrants, blackberries and notes of both Mediterranean herbs and espresso coffee that linger nicely on a long and generously mouth-filling finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from mid 2011-2017. NIS 140. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2010)
Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2008: Living fully up to its pre-release promise. Bright burnished gold in color, full-bodied, opening with a note of butterscotch on the nose. On first attack summer fruits and pears, those yielding to notes of citrus and crème brulee. Gentle wood and a near buttery-texture balanced finely with acidity. Not a lively wine but indeed destined to be complex, mouth-filling and, for lack of a better term, delicious. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable now but this one will attain its peak only in 2012 and then cellar comfortably until 2018, perhaps longer. NIS 76. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2010)
Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2007: Full-bodied, deep golden with a distinct tint of orange that plays in the glass, a wine reflecting generous wood but that in fine proportion to acidity and fruits. Opens with pears, grilled nuts and pie crust notes, those going on to show ripe fig, pineapple and baked apple aromas and flavors. Long and creamy with the oak rising on the finish. Elegance on a grand scale. Meant for cellaring, approachable on release, but best 2011–2016. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2010)
Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Full-bodied, opening with floral and citrus, those going on to tropical fruits and figs, all set off by hints of smoky oak, ginger and, on the long finish, ripe pears. Drink now–2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2010)
Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, 2003: Burnished gold in color, deep, rich and elegant, with ripe pear, honeysuckle and melon flavors coming together beautifully with generous oak, minerals and nutmeg. On the long finish hint of toffee and hazelnuts. Drink now-2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 10 Mar 2010)
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