WINE OF THE WEEK

Golan "Galilee" Moscato 2008

The experience: Yes, the brand name does evoke the wine's origins: the southern Golan Heights. Fabulously floral, the wine unfolds with beautiful beams of tropical fruit and a tingly shot of effervescence. It's the tastiest kosher white wine I've encountered. At just 6 percent alcohol, it glides down easily.

The setting: It's a natural for dessert, but we loved it as an aperitif, or paired with melon and prosciutto.

The back story: This is the first Israeli wine to be made in the style of Italy's justly renowned muscato d'Asti. The muscat canelli grapes are harvested so early that the wine can be released in October.

The tab: $15, available at Byerly's (St. Louis Park and Eagan), the Wine Thief, Napa Valley Liquors in Otsego plus Ursula's Wine Bar.

BILL WARD