On Tuesday, 18 August, I attended a tasting at the Derekh HaYain (Wine Route) store in Tel Aviv, the tasting more or less in honor of an article I had written several months ago in which I hypothesized that the wine revolution in Israel could trace itself largely to the opening of the Golan Heights Winery and the Derekh HaYain chain of stores.

The tasting, hosted by the store and by the Golan Heights Winery, included eight "pairs" of wines – those matched from imported wines and wines from the Golan. Following are my tasting notes. I had tasted each of the wines of the winery at least once before and what appears are my most recent tasting notes. In the case of the imported wines, some of which were tasted for the first time, my notes are from the evening in question. Prices are given for the wines that were offered for sale on the night of the tasting.

By the way, seeing this as a "competition" between the imported and local wines would be somewhat naive. Pairings were made not so much for wines to compete with each other but to show differences and similarities in various wines.

T'was a good crowd and a good event. A special pleasure for me was in meeting many of my regular readers.

Best
Rogov


Domaine William Fevre, Chablis, 2007: Traditional Chablis, golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with appealing apple, citrus, green gage plum and generous flinty minerals and fine balancing acidity to keep it lively throughout. At its best with oysters and cold sea-food dishes. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 120. Score 88. (Tasted 20 Aug 2009)

Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2007: Full-bodied, deep golden with a distinct tint of orange that plays in the glass, a wine reflecting generous wood but that in fine proportion to acidity and fruits. Opens with pears, grilled nuts and pie crust notes, those going on to show ripe fig, pineapple and baked apple aromas and flavors. Long and creamy with the oak rising on the finish. Elegance on a grand scale. Meant for cellaring, approachable on release, but best 2011–2016. NIS 65. Score 92. K

Domaine Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre, Les Baronnes, Loire, 2008: Opens with what Jancis Robinson likes to call the aroma of "cat's pee on a gooseberry bush", that a compliment and not an insult, those aromas fading nicely to show aromas and flavors of grapefruit, citrus peel and herbal notes all on a rich stony mineral background. As Chablis might make the ideal accompaniment to oysters this one will go beautifully with cooked lobster, crab or sea-fish dishes. Drink now-2011. NIS 120. Score 90. (Tasted 18 Aug 2009)

Yarden, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Light golden straw in color, light- to medium-bodied, a crisply refreshing wine with just enough complexity to catch our attention. On the nose and palate generous green apple, lime and grapefruit, those complemented nicely by hints of pine needles and freshly cut grass, all lingering nicely on the finish. Drink now–2011. NIS 45. Score 89. K

Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer, Alsace, 2007: A pleasant but alas too simple wine, not up to the usual Sparr standards. Spicy, as Gewurztraminer should be, but so spicy that notes of anise and cloves outweigh the citrus and floral notes that struggle to make themselves felt. Drink now. NIS 99. Score 84.

Yarden, Gewurztraminer, 2008: The color of freshly dampened straw, showing medium-bodied with traditional Gewurztraminer spices, litchis and floral notes. In the background, ripe peaches and a note of citrus peel, and finishing with notes of rose petals and minerals. Even though categorized as off-dry, there is but a bare-hint of sweetness here, that tantalizing and refreshing. Drink now–2011. NIS 50. Score 90. K

Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils, Savigny Les Beaunes 1er Cru, Burgundy, 2005: Dark cherry red, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and good balancing acidity. On the nose and palate an appealing array of cherries, raspberries and cranberries, those supported nicely by light earthy overtones. Drink now-2012. NIS 179. Score 89. (Re-tasted 18 Aug 2009)

Yarden, Pinot Noir, 2005: Dark ruby, full-bodied enough to be thought of as fleshy, and with spicy wood and gentle tannins in fine balance with acidity and fruits. Opens with near-sweet, liqueur-like berry aromas and flavors, those yielding in the glass to reveal a crisply dry wine on which you will feel hints of kirsch, dark chocolate and lightly smoked meat, all climaxing in a long and generous blackberry finishing. Drink now–2013. NIS 85. Score 93. K

Jean Louis Chave, St. Joseph, Offerus, Rhone, 2006: Dark ruby towards garnet with orange reflections, medium-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins settling in nicely. On first attack generous cedar wood and garrigue, those parting to reveal a flavor and aroma profile of black cherries, wild berries and sweet spices. On the long finish appealing notes of earthy minerals and red licorice. Drink now-2013. NIS 140. Score 92. (Tasted 18 Aug 2009)

Yarden, Syrah, 2004: Medium-dark ruby toward garnet, with firm tannins and spicy oak integrating nicely. Shows a generous array of near-jammy raspberries, blackberries, black cherries and plums, those supported nicely by hints of spices, herbs and a hint of polished leather. Drink now–2013.NIS 85. Score 90. K

Hardys, Cabernet Sauvignon, Oomoo, Coonawarra, Australia, 2006: Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle spicy oak, showing currant and wild berry fruits. A pleasant quaffer but lacking depth or breadth. Drink now. NIS 80. Score 86. (Re-tasted 18 Aug 2009)

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Brooding dark ruby-red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around black currants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Drink now–2018. Score 92. K

Gaja, Ca'Marcanda, Magari, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2005: The best Magari to date. A Tuscan blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, showing full-bodied, with silky smooth tannins integrating nicely and with balance and structure that bode well for the future. On first attack spicy blackcurrants and blackberries, those parting to reveal notes of raspberries and earthy minerals and, on the super-long finish a tantalizing hint of violets. Give this one some time and it will reveal sweet tobacco and Oriental spices. Approachable now but best 2011-2018. NIS 249. Score 93. (Re-tasted 18 Aug 2009)

Gaja, Ca'Marcanda, Magarai, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2006: Almost as delicious as the 2005. Super dark garnet in color, full-bodied with tannins still needing time to settle in but already showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate a generous array of currant, raspberry and cherry fruits, those complemented nicely by notes of cigar tobacco and flower-scented espresso coffee. Long and elegant. Best 2011-2018.NIS 249. Score 92. (Tasted 18 Aug 2009)

Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, 2004: Aged in new French barriques for 18 months, 94% Cabernet Sauvignon with the addition of 6% Merlot. Dark garnet toward royal-purple, with orange and violet reflections. Shows still generous oak and firm tannins, those in fine proportion and well balanced by blackberry, black currant and cherry fruits, on a background of white pepper, Mediterranean herbs and tobacco, and, on the long and generous finish, hints of vanilla and peppermint. Approachable now, but best 2011–2018, perhaps longer. Score 93. K

Inniskillin, Vidal Ice Wine, Oak Aged, 2004: Dark, almost bronzed gold in color, full-bodied and, as I wrote in an earlier tasting note "the oak aging seeming to have gone absolutely bonkers somewhere along the way and toasty-spicy oak tending to overpower whatever dried apricot, raisins and orange marmalade flavors are here" . Good sweetness, good acidity, good fruit but those so impacted on by the wood that this is a hard one to get through. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 18 Aug 2009)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, Yarden, 2007: Richly honeyed, with generous aromas and flavors of ripe white peaches, apricots, litchis and passion fruit, all with overlays of sweet ginger and, on the long, long finish notes of baked apples that have been treated to hints of cinnamon and sweet cream. Medium- to full bodied, rich and with fine balancing acid, a fine wine indeed. Fine with foie gras or fruit-based desserts but my wont will be to serve this one as dessert with nothing but thin slices of well aged Parmesan, Peccorino or Manchego cheese. 375 ml. bottles cost NIS 105. Drink now-2018, perhaps longer. NIS 90. Score 92. K