I recall with warm smiles when Gil Shatzberg released his first Amphorae wines in 2000. The initial winery was about as far from state-of-the-art as was possible, being housed in a few run-down trailers, a ramshackled building or two, the "office qua laboratory" holding an espresso machine that made as much noise as it worked as a broken-down trailer truck. I recall as well how it took the personable and talented Shatzberg to build a name as being one of the very best boutique wineries in the country.

It did not take too many years until the winery, located in what was then most often referred to as the Makura Ranch which sits on the western slopes of Mount Carmel, to take in partners and to construct what was then and remains now very likely the most physically beautiful winery in the country – the view, the gardens, the winery itself, all offering not only superb views but warm hospitality and fine tastings.

Ok…as has been noted before… life is difficult to predict and Amphorae is no longer Amphorae. Gil Shtazberg was given his walking papers and is now the senior winemaker at Recanat. Nor is its address given as that of the Makura Ranch. Amphorae is now Mahalal. The new owner is Vladimir Dubov.

Beauty is beyond question with regard to the physical winery. Alas, there remain a good many questions and last night I met with Michel Rolland, the world-famous French wine consultant who is working with the winery, Israeli wine connoisseur Andre Hajdu is now working as the winery's international presenter and coordinator, the manager of the winery and the winery's public relations representative to discuss the future plans of the winery. Interestingly to me, neither the senior winemaker (Arkadi Papikian) nor the new owner were present at the meeting, clearly leaving this as what I would call "introductory sales talks" and not so much a formal wine tasting of any kind

When I asked why the name of the winery was changed I was told that "Amphorae is a Greek term and not many Israelis speak Greek". To which I smile, for I doubt that there are very many in Israel who have finished third grade in elementary school who do not know that amphorae are those tall, double handled jugs, often made of clay with narrow necks and basis that were originally used by ancient Israelis, Greeks and Romans for shipping and storing wine. I also wonder why, even though the term amphorae is missing one of the wines continues to be labeled Rhyton, another particularly Greek term referring to those ancient Greek cups, most often shaped as a drinking horn and not infrequently made in the form of the head of an animal. I'd wager (gently) that fewer than 1 in 300 Israelis know what a rhyton is.

As to inquiring as to the new name of the winery, Maharal Wine, I was told that the winery does, after all, sit on Moshav Kerem Maharal. Thus, to the owners and advisors, this will be more descriptive than describing the winery as located on the Makura Ranch with which it has become famed. Of course that there are previous few grapes (and none used by the winery) on Kerem Maharal might also add just a wee bit of confusion. True though, in the future if the winery plants vineyards here they may be released as single vineyard Maharal wines.

About a year ago, I wrote about the first releases from the new winery (still Amphorae at the time) and was not at all enthusiastic, finding these wines not to have been made at the winery but by the team of Dubov, David-Bar-Ilan and consultant Papikian of the Keshet winery, a small boutique winery that had not yet marketed any of its own wines. By releasing what I considered not-at-all-exciting wines at price of up to NIS 300 per bottle and by declaring that the winery was going to set up a model for producing the very best wines of Israel and the Mediterranean basin, I could not help but be struck by what I considered a certain level of chutzpah.

New wines to be released in another month or two, those from the 2007 vintage reflect considerably lower prices, far less in the way of "stretching" reputation were also not made at the Maharal winery even though they carry that brand name. Perhaps better had they been released as "Keshet"?

Whatever, the winery is gorgeous (we did not meet there but at Hotel Montefiore in Tel Aviv) for our talks. I'm no economist but I would also guess that this might be the most expensive winery to run in Israel. With Michel Rolland (whose services commend a small fortune), Andre Haijdu, a senior winemaker, at least two other winemakers, state-of-the-art equipment, major p.r. campaigns in store, this place has got to cost a fortune to run. Considering that planned production is for about 50,000 bottles annually in coming years, winery costs must be about as sky-high as one can dream.

As to talking with Michel Rolland, whom I have known for many years, always a delight. As possibly the world's best known wine consultant (250 wineries on 5 continents, a full-time winemaking staff for his own wineries and consultancies of 7) and always manages to bring wines into his standards of quality (whether one approves of those standards or not is open to debate). Let's put it this way, Rolland, whatever his numerable talents, is about as close to pure ego as is possible to get, absolutely everything he says (re his winemaking habits, the wines he drinks, etc) dedicated in one way or another to promoting himself. All of which is just fine with me, however, for between the combination of being a true bon-vivant and connoisseur, he has an absolutely splendid sense of humor and one can comfortably deal with his input as seems necessary at the moment.

Talk was fine, everybody trying to sell me something or another (quite a bit of which quite honest) and me deciding where and how to go. Rolland is here now to check final blends for the 2008 and 2009 Maharal wines and do tentative tastings/blendings of the 2010 wines.

As to the wines we tasted:

Maharal, Rhyton, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Medium-dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied, a blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Syrah, those developed for about 12 months in some new but not all new oak. Soft tannins, good acidity and overlays of red and black fruits take this far from Cabernet but leave a pleasant, easy to drink wine that should be served just a bit chilled in order to highlight the fruit and light herbal overlay of the wine. Drink from release. About NIS 90-110. Score 86.

Maharal, Merlot-Barbera, 2007 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Barbera, those oak aged for 22-26 months in primarily new oak. Medium-dark garnet, with a red fruit nose and opening to show soft, gently caressing tannins on a background of tropical fruits. On the nose and palate raspberries, red currants and spices in good balance with light herbal and spicy notes, the oak subdued nicely but blossoming on the finish as a note of sweet cedarwood. Ripe and round, a wine built for food. Drink from release. About NIS 65-80. Score 86.

Maharal, Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark ruby toward garnet,a medium- to full-bodied blend of 52% Shirz, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, those developed in primarily new oak for 22 or longer months. On opening nose a strong whiff of spicy oak but that integrating and parting to show medium-gripping tannins to highlight aromas and flavors of red and black berries, cassis and a note of blueberries that plays nicely on the palate. Fruity and generous. Drink from release. About NIS 90-110. Drink from release. Score 87.

Maharal, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the Upper Galilee and the Golan Heights, oak-aged for 23-24 months in primarily new oak. Dark garnet, full-bodied, with generous soft tannins integrating nicely now and reflecting moderate spicy wood to highlight traditional blackcurrant, blackberry and light herbal notes. Lovely fruits linger nicely on a moderately long finish. About NIS 90-110. Drink from release-2013. Score 87.

In several months I shall be visiting the winery to do both vertical, pre-release and barrel tastings. Let's put it this way…..with the stated new philosophy of the winery, the supercalifragilisticstaff and consultants at hand, this should be one of the most interesting of my winery visits this coming year. In truth, I look forward to my tastings with a fully open mind. I also look forward to even more yet-to-be announced changes and as to how all of this will sit on the shoulders and minds of the wine consuming public.

Best
Rogov

P.S. See also the new entry at Amphorae, Maharal, Amphorae, Maharal.

P.P. Anticipating a question - at this stage there is no immediate thought about the winery going kosher.