After formal winemaking studies and the garnering of experience in Italy, France, Israel and Australia and currently as one of the winemaking team of Israel’s Recanati Winery, Ido Lewinsohn, together with his father, Amnon, opened their own artisanal winery. With the winery located literally in a residential garage in the Tel Aviv suburb of Hod HaSharon, Lewinsohn relies on purchased contract grapes, those at this stage including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Chardonnay from various vineyards in selected spots throughout the country. First releases, from the 2007 vintage, were of about 2,000 bottles and current releases are of about 6,000 bottles annually.

The winery relies on a combination of thoroughly modern and thoroughly traditional winemaking methods and produces only two wines annually. The playful naming of those as "Garage de Papa" blanc and rouge is in itself a fine calling card but far more important is that the Lewinsohn wines are demonstrating a set of unique factors that set them apart from others, as excellent as those others may be.

First of all in that set of characteristics is Lewinsohn's somewhat unique but perhaps quite valid disagreement with the general knowledge that it is largely tannins that give wines their potential for cellaring. He is of the school that considers acidity and not tannins is the most critical aspect in aging potential. Partly as a result of this, the Lewinsohn whites are generously but never overpoweringly acidic, those acids (and never, never, volatile acidity) being in fine balance with fruits and body. More, because this philosophy is applied to red wines as well, the Lewinsohn wines are far, far from blockbusters, approachable, thoroughly enjoyable and even elegant at a remarkably early stage while continuing to possess the potential for fine cellaring. The combination of low alcohol, the temperate use of oak, tannins that make themselves well felt but never hold back the wine and all of those in fine balance with the fruits may, so far, be unique in the country. In what may be a somewhat odd way on my part, if I had to find comparisons for the whites of Lewinsohn, that would be to some of the fine whites of Burgundy. For the reds, indeed Bordeaux-like blends but what comes out in the bottle is a fine reflection of Mediterranean sunshine. If I may offer an hypothesis here, I would suggest that Lewinsohn may be on its way to becoming the country's first true cult winery.

Within a matter of weeks the winery will be going online with an internet site and a members' club. Advance sales to members only will be limited to one case each of whites and reds. I shall post here when that site goes live. As to the tasting notes that follow – the 2010 wines were tasted as components from partly-blended different barrels, the final blend to be made only shortly before bottling. In that, those tasting notes are based on my own compilation of what I believe these wines will eventually be. As I often like to say, in another year or so readers will be able to tell me either how wise or foolish I was in my estimates.

My thanks to Ido and Amnon Lewinsohn for a fine tasting this morning, for their good company and their courtesies during my visit. Not a single cup of coffee was offered during my visit but by heaven, the home-made pastrami of Amnon Lewinsohn more than compensated.

Best
Rogov

Lewinsohn, Blanc, Garage de Papa, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Showing bright shining golden in color, with the crisp mineral-rich notes of a fine Chablis and the well focused and stylish notes of a fine Merusault most assuredly a Burgundy style white. Full-bodied but filling the mouth gently, opening to reveal lime, green apple, citrus and rich flinty minerals along with a hint of vanilla, a thoroughly well-balanced white that is mouthwatering and long. Not a "big" wine but one that fills the mouth beautifully. Approachable and enjoyable on release but best 2013-2019. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 18 Feb 2011)

Lewinsohn, Rouge, Garage de Papa Rouge, 2010 (Barrel Tasting): Based on about 75% Merlot, that fleshed out with Petite Syrah, Syrah and about 1% of Viognier, showing dark cherry red toward garnet, full-bodied, with abundant but gently caressing tannins and fine balancing acidity. Lush and rich, polished and round, opening to show an appealing array of red and lack currants, plums and notes of loamy earth and spices. An expressive wine, on the long finish tannins rising together with a note of mocha. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 18 Feb 2011)

Lewinsohn, Rouge, Garage de Papa Rouge, 2009 (Advance Tasting): About 60% Merlot, that blended with Petite Sirah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon and 2 – 3% of Viognier. Dark royal purple, full-bodied, with soft tannins that caress gently and a bare hint of vanilla from the oak in which it aged. Ripe but not-at-all over-ripe, a round, soft wine showing generous blackberries, blackcurrants and a note of licorice, those complemented nicely by notes of tobacco and mocha. Long and elegant. Approachable and enjoyable on release but best 2013-2020. Score 93. (Tasted 18 Feb 2011)

Lewinsohn, Blanc, Garage de Papa, 2009: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Made entirely from Chardonnay grapes developed in new and older barriques, rich, not at all buttery but crisply refreshing with fine balance between generous but wisely utilized acidity, low alcohol (about 12.5%) and fruits. Opens with elegantly subdued aromas and flavors that hint of pears, apples and citrus, those on a background of lightly toasted oak and crisp minerality. Goes on to reveal candied limes, peaches and vague but tantalizing notes of exotic spices and blanched almonds. Lush and mouth-watering, the vibrant acidity leading to a long, long finish on which a hint of baked pie pastry. Chardonnay in its purest form and calls to mind a fine Puligny-Montrachet. Firmly structured, the wine is thoroughly enjoyable now but will develop a more fleshy texture as it develops. Drink now–2018. Score 93. (Re-tasted 18 Feb 2011)

Lewinsohn, Blanc, Garage de Papa, 2008: Once again, my earlier tasting note holds firmly. Chardonnay at its best. Light shining gold with tantalizing hints of green and orange reflections, showing fine balance between acidity, minerals and fruit. On first attack a distinct note of grapefruit, that yielding to notes of lemon, melon, green apples and a tantalizing combination of chalky and flinty minerals, all with an appealing floral overlay. Full-bodied but not at all fat, with gentle notes of spicy wood, calls to mind a fine 1er cru Chablis and like those wines will age nicely. Mouth-filling yet graceful and elegant. Drink now–2018. Score 93. (Re-tasted 18 Feb 2011)

As to prices - the Garage de Papa Blanc sells in Israel for NIS 140 and the Rouge for NIS 150. In my opinion, fine value for money.