Note: As is known, I am now writing two wine columns weekly in the Hebrew edition of HaAretz. Because only one of those appears in the English edition, I shall be posting my second weekly article on the forum shortly after the column appears in the newspaper. The following piece was printed in HaAretz on 1 July 2011.

In Praise of Merlot Wine
Daniel Rogov

Like Cinderella, wines based on the Merlot grape have too often been forced by their older and better established sisters to sit in a corner, just a bit ashamed to make a public appearance. In Bordeaux, where the grape originated, and is, in fact, the most often planted grape in the region, Merlot grapes have a reputation for producing soft wines of limited character. The grapes have never been ignored however. Because wines made from Merlot are said to reduce the sharpness of other wines, they are often blended in relatively small quantities into some of the great Cabernet Sauvignon wines. For many years very few European winemakers give much thought to bottling a pure Merlot. Even in California, Italy and Chile, where a good deal of Merlot wine is produced, many wineries have a problem selling it because potential buyers have been fairly well convinced that a Merlot simply cannot be as good as a Cabernet Sauvignon. The image of Merlot was tarnished even further in the 2004 film "Sideways" in which one of the protagonists devoted a great deal of time to derogating it.

All of which is not entirely fair, for the Merlot grape is the basis of the wine of Chateau Petrus, unquestionably one of the greatest Bordeaux red wines. Known as the "king of Pomerol", Chateau Petrus has produced more consistently great wines year after year than any other chateau in Bordeaux. Rich, supple and elegant at all times and reaching extraordinary heights of finesse in good vintage years, these wines are highly prized and accordingly priced. Simply stated, the fact that Chateau Petrus is based on 95% of Merlot grapes demonstrates that in addition to the grape, climate and soil play dominant roles in the creation of great wines. At this writing, the Merlot grape is alive and doing quite well in Israel, the wines giving good competition to many other red grapes.

The first local winery to come out with a wine based primarily on Merlot grapes was The Golan Heights Winery in 1986. Based on 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the 1986 wine was little short of superb and the winery has continued to release fine wines made from Merlot, some of those from single vineyards. Many other wineries have now followed along in this trend.

Unlike the wines of Chateau Petrus that should never be drunk before they are ten years old, the best Israeli Merlots are drinkable as early as three years after the harvest. Fermented for about two weeks with their skins, the wines are then aged for 10 - 16 months in 225 liter oak barrels, some from France, others from the United States. After that the wines are aged in the bottle for 10 - 12 months before they are released to the market.

Following are reviews of some of the very best current releases of Israeli Merlot. Also, because it is difficult to resist, a tasting note for the 1961 Petrus.

Bustan, Bustan, Merlot, 2006: A luxuriant and rich wine, dark garnet toward royal purple in color, reflecting its 22 months in oak with notes of vanilla and cinnamon and soft, supple tannins that caress rather than "grab." On the nose and palate a generous array of plums, black cherries, currants, mocha and toasty oak, all lingering comfortably on a remarkably long finish on which tannins and spices rise nicely. A supple and generous wine, perhaps best matched with large or small cuts of lamb or mutton. Drink now–2016. Score 93. K

Yarden, Merlot, Kela (Sha’al) Vineyard, 2008: Full-bodied, concentrated and well-focused, showing layer after layer of blackberries, plums, espresso coffee and fresh sage and roasted herbs. Give this one time and it will show hints of leather. An intense wine but with the potential for elegance. Drink now–2018, perhaps longer. Score 93. K

Yarden, Merlot, Kela Vineyard, 2008: Deep, almost impenetrable garnet in color, full-bodied, concentrated and well focused, reflecting its 14 months in French barriques with chewy tannins and notes of spicy cedar, those parting to make way for aromas and flavors of blackberries, plums, espresso and sage. On the long finish notes of roasted herbs. Give this one some time and it will show appealing earthy minerals and hints of citrus peel. Drink now-2018, perhaps longer. Score 93. K

Clos de Gat, Sycra, Merlot, 2006: Full-bodied, reflecting its 20 months in new oak with generous spicy wood and equally generous but softly mouth-coating tannins, those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Opens with currant, purple plum and mocha notes, those yielding to blackberry, citrus-peel and light herbal and tobacco overtones. Drink now–2014. Score 93.

Margalit, Merlot, 2007: Anything but one of those rather boring internationalized Merlots that we have come to dread! Medium- to full-bodied, earthy, with big but velvety tannins and ripe purple plum, currant and blackberry fruits. Long and soft on the palate, with a finish that goes on and on. Drink now–2017. Score 93.

Flam, Reserve, Merlot, 2008: Oak-aged in French barriques for 15 months, a blend of 90% Merlot and 5% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark garnet toward royal purple, with ample soft tannins and a gentle hand with the oak, showing aromas and flavors of currants and black cherries, those supported nicely by notes of peppermint, spring flowers and spices, a tempting light, earthy note rising on the long finish. Drink now–2018. Score 92.

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2009: Deep garnet toward royal purple, medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full) with gently caressing tannins and not at all exaggerated notes of spicy wood, those complementing a generous array of blackcurrant, wild berry and raspberry fruits. Deep and round, with notes of cigar tobacco and a tantalizing hint of sweetness on the long finish. Finely tuned balance and structure bode well for an elegant wine as this one continues to develop. Drink now-2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. K

Carmel, Single Vineyard, Merlot, Sha'al, 2009: Aged for ten months in small oak barrels, showing dark garnet toward royal purple in color. Medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full), opens with a generous hint of mint on a black-fruit nose, going on to reveal purple plums and then to raspberries and red currants. Drink now–2016, perhaps longer. Score 91. K

Barkan Superieur, Merlot, Superieur, 2008: Still a tentative blend but already showing fine promise. Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with black fruits and a light note of sawdust on the nose, showing gently gripping tannins and a tempting array of cassis, wild berries and dark chocolate on the nose and palate. Long and generous. Destined for elegance. Drink now–2016. Score 91. K

Recanati, Reserve, Merlot, Reserve, 2008: Made from low-yield, non-irrigated grapes from the Manara vineyard in the Upper Galilee, full-bodied, with soft, gently gripping tannins integrating nicely. Dark garnet and showing a tempting array of wild berries, black cherries and currants, those matched gently by notes of spicy cedarwood. Deep, generous and long, with near-sweet tannins rising on the long finish. Drink now–2016. Score 91. K

Ben Hanna, Merlot, 2007: Deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and appealing notes of spicy oak. Shows a generous array of blackberry, black cherry and blueberry fruits, those complemented by hints of Oriental spices. Drink now–2013. Score 90.

Chateau Golan, Royal Reserve, Merlot, 2009: Ruby toward garnet, well extracted but showing soft and round, with aromas and flavors of wild berries and plums on a background of licorice and earthy minerals. Drink now–2016. Score 90.

Dalton, Reserve, Merlot, 2007: Developed for 18 months in French barriques, half of which were new, showing soft, gently caressing tannins, spicy cedarwood and generous wild berry and cassis, those supported by herbal, tobacco notes and on the long finish a flavor of red plums rising. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K

Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2008: Deep garnet in color, full-bodied with still-gripping tannins but already showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. Rich and round, a fruity red with an abundance of blackberry, raspberry and currant notes, those showing an appealing floral note. From mid-palate on to the long finish, hints of citrus peel and milk chocolate. Drink now–2014. Score 90. K

Galil Mountain, Merlot, 2009: Garnet toward royal purple, an unoaked red, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins, showing currant, wild berry and purple plums on a lightly spicy background. Not complex but making for very pleasant drinking and at its best with small cuts of beef or veal. Drink now–2013. Score 86. K

Gush Etzion, Emek Bracha, Merlot, 2008: Oak-aged for 22 months, a garnet toward royal purple blend of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a fine array of currant, wild berry and red plums, those complemented nicely by hints of black pepper and dark chocolate. Long and generous. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K

Meishar, Reserve, 731, Merlot, 2008: Medium- to full-bodied, medium-dark garnet with a violet robe and showing silky soft tannins and a bare kiss of spicy wood that caress gently. Opens in the glass to reveal raspberries, red currants and light notes of roasted herbs. On the long finish tannins rise together with fruits and a hint of red licorice. Drink now-2016. Score 90.

Odem Mountain, Reserve. Merlot, 2008: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied with soft, gently caressing tannins and a moderate hand with the oak. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries, black cherries and a gentle hint of licorice on the long finish. Drink now-2015. Score 90. K

Soreq, Merlot, Kerem Yosef, 2007: Dark garnet toward royal purple, reflecting its 18 months in new oak with spices, vanilla and gently gripping tannins. Full-bodied, round and concentrated, opens to show black fruits and a note of black pepper, going on to reveal hints of citrus peel and dark chocolate. Drink now-2015. Score 90.

Tabor, Adama II, Merlot, 2008: Dark cherry red toward garnet, made entirely from Merlot grapes harvested on Kerem Ben Zimra in the Upper Galilee on volcanic soil, reflecting its 12 months in oak with full-body, soft tannins and light notes of smoky oak. On the nose and palate currants, red berries and notes of citrus peel all on a light note of white pepper. Round, long and generous. Drink now-2014. Score 90. K

Tzuba, Tel Tzuba, Merlot, 2008: Garnet toward royal purple with orange reflections, full-bodied with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and showing fine concentration and balance. On first attack red currants and raspberries, those yielding to blackberries and an appealing hint of bitter herbs. Drink now–2014. Score 90. K

Zuberman, Zauberman, Merlot, 2007: As are many of the Zauberman wines, a blockbuster, full-bodied, alcoholic, tannic and dense with generous oak and sur-ripe fruits. On the nose and palate black and red fruits on a background of espresso coffee, those and the tannins coating the mouth and lingering on and on. A New World wine if ever there was one but a well-crafted and interesting wine. Drink now–2014. Score 90.

Chateau Petrus 1961

Chateau Petrus, Pomerol,1961: As awesome today as it has ever been. Dark ruby toward garnet with not even a hint of clearing at the rim, showing every bit as much depth, concentration and richness as in its youth. On the nose and palate crushed wild berries, cassis and cherry liqueur those complemented by notes of notes of tobacco, roasted herbs and bittersweet chocolate. On the super-long finish look for a hint of gun metal. Continuing to show as a tremendously intense and powerful wine. Drink now-2025. Depending on where you find it, anywhere from 5,000-10,000 €. Score 100.