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A Sampling of Tastings from Israwinexpo (Mostly Kosher)
Author: Daniel Rogov
Published: 02.14.10 | Source: Rogov's Place| Viewed: 891 Times
On Tuesday, 9 February, I attended the opening day of the Israwinexpo exhibition in Tel Aviv. As I have written earlier, my overall impressions of the event were very positive. From overall organization to the display of individual wineries, to the people staffing the booths, nearly all went smoothly.
Much of my day was dedicated to talking with winemakers and others involved with the wine trade. I also took "time out" to appear on two television broadcasts and to sip a great many double espressos. As to tastings, because time was at a premium, I did not do re-tastings at any of the larger wineries, each of which I have recently visited or will be visiting in the quite near future, but limited myself largely to smaller wineries, several of which were new to me. Following are a sampling of my tasting notes from the day. (Prices are noted where known)
Lueria, Rouge, 2007: From a relative newcomer to the scene, now producing 10,000 bottles annually, a medium-bodied blend of Sangiovese, Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon (60%, 30% and 10% respectively). With a fresh, fruity nose, soft tannins and generous wild berry, currant and black cherry fruits, a not complex wine and somewhat acidic wine but an acceptable entry level quaffer. Drink now. NIS 120. Score 84. K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Lueria, Grand Vin, 2006: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with gripping, somewhat chunky tannins. Opens in the glass to reveal aromas and flavors of currants, wild berries, roasted herbs and earthy-minerals. Drink now. NIS 190. Score 86. K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tradition, 2008: An garnet towards adobe brick colored blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, that fleshed out with Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Oak-aged for 13 months, medium- to full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins, opens in the glass to reveal blackberry and black cherry fruits. Marred somewhat by a strong herbal overlay. Drink now. NIS 80. Score 85. K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Benhaim, Merlot, Reserve, 2006: Garnet with a hint of adobe, medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full), a blend of 85% Merlot and equal parts of Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Oak aged for 28 months, with a somewhat funky nose but opening in the glass to show currant, wild berry and citrus peel notes. Opens and closes with a marked earthy note. Drink now-2012. NIS 140. Score 85. K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: Garnet towards brick brown in color, medium- to full-bodied, with the aromas and flavors fleshed out by Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Aged in barriques for 23 months, shows soft tannins and abundant spicy and dusty oak, those parting to make way for currants, berries and plums, those on a background of green olives. Drink now-2011. NIS 140. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Shiloh, Chardonnay, Sod Reserve, 2007: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, with crisp acidity to highlight melon, pear and apple notes. Lively and refreshing with just enough complexity to grab the attention. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Shiloh, Rose, Sod Reserve, 2007: Light- to medium-bodied, a straightforward rose, not quite dry but with good balancing acidity and a basic raspberry, cherry personality. Easy quaffing, especially when served very well chilled. Drink now. Score 85 K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Shiloh, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Shor, 2006: A dark ruby toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied a gently tannic blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot and 3% of Petite Sirah. Reflecting oak-aging for 15 months with notes of vanilla and crème caramel, opens in the glass to show currant, blackberry and purple plum fruits, those matched by notes of roasted herbs and freshly roasted coffee beans. Drink now–2011. NIS 80. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 9 FReb 2010
Shiloh, Merlot-Shiraz, Shor, 2006: A blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Shiraz, showing generous vanilla and smoky notes from its 14 months in American oak, that balanced by good fruits and lively acidity. Medium- to full-bodied, opens slowly in the glass to reveal gently gripping tannins, generous black fruits and notes of chocolate. Round and generous. Drink now–2011. NIS 80. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Shiloh, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Sod, 2006: Developed for 16 months in new and older French barriques, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and notes of sweet cedarwood. Dark garnet, an aromatic wine, opening to reveal blackcurrants and black cherries, those matched by notes of citrus peel, chocolate and freshly roasted herbs. Fine balance and a long and generous finish on which the tannins and fruits rise nicely. Drink now–2012. NIS 115. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Gvaot, Gewurztraminer, Herodion, 2009: Cold-fermented to guard the aromas and flavors of the variety, a true Gewurztraminer, showing litchi, citrus peel and floral notes on a generously spicy background, with sweetness rising on the finish. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 87. K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Herodion, 2008: Garnet towards royal purple in color, a youthful medium-bodied blend, with soft tannins integrating nicely with notes of spicy wood and vanilla. Opens to show generous currant, wild berry and citrus peel notes on a background of stony minerals. Generous. Drink now-2013. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Gvaot, Vineyard Dance, Herodion, 2008: Oak-aged for 12 months, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins that caress gently, a round and elegant wine opening with red plum and red currant fruits, those yielding to black cherries and blackberries, the fruits supported nicely by notes of bitter-sweet chocolate and, on the long finish a hint of Oriental spices. Drink now-2014. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Gvaot, Merlot, Herodion, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): A near-twin to the 2006 edition. Dark garnet, full-bodied, with still firm tannins and spicy wood needing time to integrated, a concentrated wine with notes of spicy cedar wood parting to reveal currant, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of earthy minerals. Long and generous. Drink from release-2015. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Gvaot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gofna Reserve, Har'El Vineyard, 2007: Showing every bit as well as at an earlier tasting. New World Cabernet, full-bodied, with caressing tannins and forward blackberry and blackcurrant fruits, those supported by generous hints of spices and sweet Mediterranean herbs, all leading to a long dark chocolate, mocha and tobacco finish. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Avidan, Prio, Fringe, 2007: Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins, a blend of 40% Carignan, 30% Grenache and 15% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. On first attack blackberries, those followed by cassis and purple plums, all set on a background of truffles and bakers' chocolate. As this one develops look as well for notes of saddle leather and espresso coffee. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2017. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Avidan, Grenache, Premium, 2007 (Advance Tasting): My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Medium-dark garnet in color, made from 30-year-old low yield vines, showing fine concentration and intensity. Medium- to full-bodied (perhaps leaning toward the full), with gently caressing tannins showing black cherry, wild berry, blueberry and peppery aromas and flavors. Drink now–2013, perhaps longer. Score 88.
Avidan, Full Wine, 2008: A medium- to full-bodied, generously tannic blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Petite Sirah. , opens with a nose of freshly turned earth, that integrating nicely in the glass and opening to reveal generous peppery berry, blackberry and citrus peel notes, those supported by notes of black pepper and tar. Oak-aged for 12 months, approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2014, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Adir, Merlot, 2007: A blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in some new, some second and third year barriques. Dark, almost impenetrably garnet in color, a deeply extracted medium- to full-bodied wine with gripping tannins and spicy wood in good proportion with black fruits, those on a background of freshly cured tobacco and dried herbs. Oddly enough, as at an earlier tasting, a technically well-made wine but one that seems to leave one "wanting". Drink now-2011. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Adir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, oak aged in mostly French oak for 12 months. Dark garnet and aromatic on the nose, opens in the glass to show generous blackberry, currant and purple plums, those supported by cedar-wood and spicy notes. Lacks the depth and breadth felt at an earlier tasting. Drink now. Score 85. K ((Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Adir, Plato, 2005: My earlier tasting notes hold firmly. A blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Syrah, aged for 12 months in older oak and then an additional 12 months in new oak. Dark garnet, showing a bit of clearing at the rim, full-bodied, with tannins that continue to be quite firm and a good deal of sweet cedar wood that has never fully integrated, but does open on the palate to show appealing raspberry, red currant and vanilla notes. Starting to show age. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Adir, Plato, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Showing much as at barrel tastings. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with about 18% of Syrah developed in 300 liter oak barrels, showing medium- to full-bodied, with soft gently caressing tannins. On opening attack raspberry, and cassis notes, those yielding to black- and blueberries on a lightly spicy background. Rich and long. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Villa Wilhelma, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Reserve, 2005: Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with once firm tannins and generous toasty wood now integrating nicely. Oak-aged for 30 months, showing an interesting mélange of red and black fruits, spices and hints of licorice. Drink now-2012. Score 88. (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Villa Wilhelma, Timeless, 917, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot, oak aged for 917 days (31 months) in medium- to heavy-toasted oak barriques. Abundant smoky wood that adds notes of bitter burned toast and generously gripping tannins. Indeed there are black fruits and wild berries here and possibly some roasted herbs and perhaps even a touch of licorice but the aromas and flavors of the wood keep those fairly well hidden. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
Villa Wilhelma, Timeless, 1243, 2005: A blend a tad different than the 917 wine reviewed abpve, this one of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot, this wine as developed for 30 months in new oak and then transferred to completely new barrels for an additional 12 months. Perhaps a noble experiment but one that yields a wine so firmly dominated by its smoky and bitter wood that whatever fruits are here seem to evade bringing themselves to consciousness. Dark and intense, I suppose those who like chewing on charred wooden toothpicks may find some charm here. Score 78. (Re-tasted 9 Feb 2010)
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