Quite a few years ago my brother sent me a postcard with a cartoon illustration of a very small man running on a circular treadmill, looking pathetically out at the world and saying "I guess it's going to be just one of those lifetimes".

On Tuesday (16 March 2010) I left Tel Aviv by train for Beit Shemesh, there to make my way to the Teperberg winery. It was early, I was sleepy and I dozed off with the comfortable knowledge that shortly before the train reached my station there would be an announcement that would wake me. That announcement never came and as I woke the train doors had just closed and I was on my way out of Beit Shemesh and on to Jerusalem. As I say…just one of those lifetimes.

At any rate, Shiki Rauchberger, Teperberg's senior winemaker and I were in touch by our cellphones and he raced ahead in his car to meet me at the train station of Jerusalem's Biblical Zoo, so except for having been embarrassed and having lost an hour, all ended well.

Founded in 1870 by the Teperberg family in the Jewish quarter of the old city of Jerusalem, and then relocating outside of the walls, the winery moved to Motza, on the outskirts of the city, in 1964, and there took on the name of Efrat. For much of that time it produced primarily sacramental wines for the ultra-Orthodox community. During the 1990s it also started producing table wines. Starting in 2002, under the supervision of California-trained winemaker Shiki Rauchberger the winery began producing wines destined to appeal to a more sophisticated audience. Now relocated to their newly constructed winery on Kibbutz Tzora at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains, the winery has officially taken on the name Teperberg 1870. (With apologies to all, despite that official name, I will continue to refer to the winery simply as Teperberg. Seems more mellifluous to me.)

More than a mere change in name and location, the new winery, still partly under construction, now boasts fully modern equipment, a new and very impressive barrel room and increasing control over its vineyards, and is currently producing about 4 million bottles annually. Wines of interest are produced in the Reserve, Terra, Silver and Teperberg series. The Efrat label has not fully disappeared and may now be considered a sub-label of the winery that is intended largely for sale in supermarkets. With the exception of the wines in the Reserve and Terra series, all of the wines are mevushal. Target production within the next five years is 7 million bottles annually.

Trained at the University of California at Davis and with a great deal of local experience under his belt, Rauchberger is now working together with a French-born and French-trained colleague Olivier Fratty. The combination of the two personalities and their New and Old World philosophies works well and the winery, although still a "work in progress" continues to show improvement on an annual basis. Based on my tastings today, I conclude that from this point on Teperberg will be posing serious competition to wineries such as Galil Mountain, Tabor and Dalton when it comes to both quality and value for money.

My tasting notes follow. My thanks to both Shiki and Olivier for a fine tasting and for their courtesies and good company during my visit. I must also comment that the shwarma (on a baguette with tchina, humous, red cabbage, and hot sauce) I had at lunch after the tasting with Olivier was most pleasant.


Reserve Series

Teperberg, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Deep gold, reflecting its development in French oak barriques with peppery and cinnamon notes. On the nose and palate citrus, melon, green apples and citrus peel. Lively, spicy and long, a generous wine. Drink from release-2013. NIS 70. Score 89. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Meritage, Reserve. 2007: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, medium- to full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins and hints of spicy oak to highlight blackcurrant, cherry and blueberry fruits. In the background notes of gently spicy wood and a hint of mocha. Lingers nicely. Drink now-2012. NIS 60. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Merlot, Reserve, 2007: The winery's first Merlot release in its Reserve series and a rousing success. Super-dark garnet, full-bodied, with generous tannins settling in nicely to highlight abundant currant and blackberry fruits on first attack, those yielding to red berries and, on the long finish, hints of loamy earthy and sweet spices. Drink now–2013.NIS 100. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Dark, medium- to full-bodied (leaning towards the full) and intense with still firm and gripping tannins needing a bit more time to integrate. Big and broad-shouldered, with blackberry, blackcurrant, fig and mocha notes backed up by hints of lead pencil and cocoa. Hints of licorice and bitter herbs here. Generous, with an appealing toasty sensation rising on the finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2011-2014. The best to date from Teperberg.NIS 100 Score 91. K (Re-tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds largely intact. Dark toward inky-garnet, full-bodied, reflecting its 15 months in oak with gentle spices and a hint of smoke, with once firm tannins now settling in and fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate an appealing array of spicy currant, blackberry, cedar and mineral notes, those light hints of anise and cigar tobacco on the long and generous finish. Holds back a bit when first poured but opens very nicely in the glass. Drink now–2012. NIS 100. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 16 Mar 2010)


Terra Series

Teperberg, Sauvignon Blanc, Unoaked, Terra, 2009: Light golden straw in color, unoaked, a crisply dry and aromatic, a clean and refreshing wine with citrus, citrus peel and light grassy notes, all lingering nicely on the palate and with enough peppery complexity to grab our attention. Drink now. Score 88. NIS 45. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Sauvignon Blanc, Terra, 2009: Dark golden straw in color, think of this perhaps as the big brother of the unoaked version of the wine (reviewed above), this one reflecting its 6 months in barriques with a surprisingly heavy oak influence that seems to mute the fruits somewhat. More complex than the unoaked version but because of the wood, less satisfying. Drink now. Score 86. NIS 45. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Terra, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins in fine balance with spicy oak. As might be said – red fruits all the way, opening with raspberries and cherries, going on to red currants, those with appealing hints of cinnamon and espresso coffee that linger nicely, the tannins rising on the finish. Drink from release-2013. NIS 50. Score 88. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Malbec, Terra, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Delicious! As dark as a Malbec should be, medium- to full bodied (leaning to the full), with generous, softly gripping tannins in fine balance with spicy cedar wood and fruits. On the nose and palate purple plums, black cherries and wild berries, those supported nicely by notes of cinnamon toast and, on the long finish a comfortable note of espresso coffee. Drink from release-2013. NIS 65-70. Score 90. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Merlot, Terra, 2007: Dark garnet, medium bodied, with nicely gripping tannins and a gentle hand with the wood, those in fine balance with ripe plums, blackberries and blueberries. In the background appealing hints of Oriental spices and earthy minerals. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra, 2007: Thoroughly traditional Cabernet. Super-dark garnet, with gripping near-sweet tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely to show off black currants and cassis, those with hints of mint and freshly roasted coffee. Drink now–2012. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 16 Mar 2010)




Silver Series

Teperberg, Chardonnay, Silver, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Light gold, reflecting its 8 months in oak with spicy and cedar-like notes, opens with a fresh nose and then reveals apple, citrus and pineapple notes, those with good balancing acidity. Medium-bodied but mouth-filling and generous. Drink from release. NIS 40-45. Score 87. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Sangiovese, Silver, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, somewhere in style between Tuscany and the Mediterranean, showing medium-bodied, soft and round with generous notes of wild berries and currants, all with a hint of white pepper in the background. A lovely wine for pizza, pasta or chicken cacciatore. Drink from release. NIS 40-45. Score 87. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Merlot, Silver, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Oak aged for six months, showing very dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins that make the wine soft, round and caressing. Fine balance between spicy cedar wood notes and black fruits, all lingering nicely. Drink from release. NIS 40-45. Score 88. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Syrah, Silver, 2009 (Advance Tasting): A fine traditional Syrah nose, showing hints of leather and grilled meat opening to real medium- to full-body with generous but soft tannins. Reflects its six months in oak with spices and a hint of vanilla and on the nose and palate purple and green gage plums together with notes of currants. Drink from release. NIS 40-45. Score 87. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, Silver, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Deeply extracted and almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, opens with aromas and flavors of raspberries, goes on to reveal black currants and blackberries on a lightly spicy, gently tannic background. Round and generous. Drink from release. NIS 40-45. Score 88. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, White Riesling, Late Harvest , Silver, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Light gold in color, with honeyed guava, peach and nectarine fruits, those opening to notes of sweet, stewed apples. Medium-bodied, with moderate to rich sweetness but with fine balancing acidity to keep the wine lively and fresh. Fine as an aperitif, with goose liver dishes or with fruit-based desserts. Drink from release-2013, perhaps longer. Score 89. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, White Riesling, Late Harvest, Silver, 2008: Opens with a burst of honeyed quince, continues to nectarine and peach fruits and finally to light notes of pepper and mint. Honeyed flavors throughout. Generously sweet but with fine balancing acidity. Drink now-2013. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 16 Mar 2010)




Teperberg Series

Teperberg, White, 2009: A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay, light gold in color, with pineapple, citrus and tropical fruits on the nose and palate, those with just the barest hint of sweetness. Clean and refreshing, a fine entry level wine. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 84. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)

Teperberg, Red, 2009: Dark royal purple in color, a medium-bodied blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot. On the nose a hint of raspberry flavored bubble gum, that thankfully subsiding and giving way to aromas and flavors of wild berries, cherries and cassis. A pleasant enough entry-level wine, fruity enough that despite its dryness, some will think it sweet . Drink now. NIS 30. Score 84. K (Tasted 16 Mar 2010)