Three new Chardonnay releases from the Golan Heights Winery, all well-worth our effort, the Katzrin 2006, Odem Vineyard 2007, and Yarden 2007. Wines that comfortably carry the winery's signature but each different from the other. My advice as happens every so often - at first pick up one of each. Invite friends over for a tasting and a meal. Supply three glasses for each guest, pour the wines, taste first before the meal without letting people know which is which, unveil the wines and discuss them and let people decide on their favorite/s. Then to finish off the wines with a good meal.

I'm in an effusive mood so will even suggest a menu: Open with vitello tonnato (a Piedmontese specialty in which thin slices of cold roast veal are spooned over with a sauce in which tuna, anchovies, capers and mayonnaise had been blended together to a smooth consistency and then refrigerated overnight to allow all of the flavors to come together) and continue with farfalle, bow-tie shaped pasta tossed with a mixture of ricotta cheese, spinach and olive oil, aand, if available sprinkled over with freshly grated white Piedmont truffles. If you keep kosher, substitute the second dish with lamb chops or medallions, those grilled and served topped with a mixture of sauteed red, green and yellow peppers.

Best
Rogov

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, 2006: Rich and supple, deep gold in color, full-bodied, with abundant toasty oak and vanilla but those well integrated. Opens in the glass to reveal peach, yellow plum and mineral aromas and flavors, those hinting at one moment of figs at another of pears. Hints of cream and spice come in but in the end the fruits carry through beautifully to an effusive finish that will remind many of grand cru Chablis. Drink now-2014. Score 92. K (Tasted 27 Jul 2009)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2007: Concentrated and full-bodied, with aromas and flavors of pears, figs, apricots and green apples, all with an overlay of spicy, toasty oak. Rich and persistent, with notes of tangerines and nectarines that come in on the long finish. Drink now-2012. Score 91.K (Tasted 27 Jul 2009)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden 2007: Full-bodied, deep golden with a distinct tint of orange that plays in the glass, a wine reflecting generous wood but that in fine proportion to acidity and fruits. Opens with pears, grilled nuts and pie crust notes, those going on to show ripe fig, pineapple and baked apple aromas and flavors. Long and creamy with the oak rising on the finish. Elegance on a grand scale. Meant for cellaring, approachable now, but best 2011–2016. Score 93. K