Not everyone is going to appreciate the relatively recently released Yarden T2, and that perhaps largely because one almost has to develop a somewhat special need to involve with two Portuguese varieties, Tinta Cao and Touriga Nacional, both relative strangers to Israel. Whatever, the two varieties are most surely among the best of Portugal and produce an increasing number of deep, full-bodied, red wines of both quality and interest.

I am at least partially convinced that using this combination started as an experiment on the part of Victor Shoenfeld and his winemaking staff. That the combination turns out to be one of the most unique in the country cannot, no matter what one thinks of the wine on his/her palate, make it one of the most fascinating releases in the country in the last 20 years.

Yarden, T2, 2006: Full-boied, deep garnet with a rim that might be of black cherries, full-bodied, opening with gripping tannins, those parting gently in the glass. On the opening nose a rich cherry note, that parting to make way for generous aromas and flavors of chocolate, lightly burned espresso coffee and spices, all coming together in a thoroughly coherent whole. Long and generous, best possible match for this wine will be a fine cheese platter, the cheeses served with butter and on crispy bread. Drink now-2017. Score 91. (K)

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Rogov