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Recent posts
The Other Reds – Israeli Red Wines
Author: israeli-wine.org
Posted: 08.11.10 8:56am GMT | Viewed: 600 Times

Most of Israel’s quality reds are made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah or Shiraz. However, for those looking for a more unique Israeli character for its wines, there are also wines made by other red varieties in Israel. Wines like Barkan Pinotage, Binyamina Tempranillo, Carmel Carignan, Carmel Petite Sirah, Chateau Golan Geshem, Dalton Zinfandel, Galil Mountain Barbera, Gamla Sangiovese, Margalit Cabernet Franc, Segal Argaman, Teperberg Malbec and Yarden Pinot Noir, certainly provide the consumer with something different.
Argaman
Argaman is Israel’s only true variety. The variety was developed in the late 1980’s from a cross between the Portuguese Souzao and the Israeli work-horse variety, Carignan. The intention was to provide a blending grape with excellent color. The word ‘Argaman’ means deep purple. It is mainly grown in the Samson, Shefela region and the Judean Lowlands. One particular winery, Segal, has adopted the Argaman as a special project and planted it in the Upper Galilee. They produced a praiseworthy single vineyard wine. Segal is a winery, which is part of the Barkan –Tempo empire and they are the most successful Argaman specialists in the country. The Segal Argaman 2007 won a gold medal at Les Citadelles du Vin, a competition held in Bordeaux.
Barbera
Barbera is a simple variety from the north-west of Italy and Piedmont in particular. It has a high natural acidity, which means it may have potential in Israel as a blending grape. As yet it is very sparsely grown, mainly in the Upper Galilee. The best example of an Israeli Barbera up to now, is produced by the Galil Mountain Winery, situated at Yiron, on the northern border with Lebanon.
Cabernet Franc
Mainly known as one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc is part of the classic Bordeaux blend and makes varietal wines in the Loire Valley. It was originally planted in Israel by Baron Rothschild in the late 1880’s, when it was originally even more prominent than Cabernet Sauvignon. When it made its comeback in the 1990’s, it was mainly used in Bordeaux style blends in Israel. However in the 2000’s, a few wineries started making very good Cabernet Francs, including Margalit from their Binyamina vineyard, Pelter from the Judean Hills and both Carmel and Ella Valley from the Upper Galilee. The wines tend to be lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon, with the recognizable herbaceous character. Though clearly more suitable in cooler climates, there are some who believe this is a variety that Israel will become known for in future. The Margalit Cabernet Franc 2007 received 93 points from Daniel Rogov, and the Pelter T Selection Cabernet Franc received 92 points. The Carmel Appellation Cabernet Franc won gold medals at both the Best Value and Eshkol Hazahav competitions in 2010.
Carignan
Carignan is the historic variety of Israel, being planted in 1882, preceding even the involvement of Baron Edmond de Rothschild. For over a hundred years the humble Carignan has been the backbone of the Israel wine industry, being used from everything from grape juice and sweet Kiddush wine to dry table wines. In recent years this variety, as in Priorat and Corbieres, has made a comeback. By reducing yields and using only old vines, Carignan has been producing better wines recently than any time in its history. Most of the Carignan is planted in the valleys of Mt. Carmel, surrounding Zichron Ya’acov.
The pioneer of ‘new’ Carignan in Israel, is Carmel Winery. In the last eight years, both Carmel & Carignan have been carving a new name for quality as they have both been rejuvenated, the one alongside the other. The finest example is Appellation Carignan Old Vines, recently recommended by the Wine Enthusiast, but it is also used in the Carmel Mediterranean blend, Carmel’s flagship wine for Mediterranean varieties, and in the Reches/ Ridge Carignan Shiraz, an easy drinking blend. Carignan has arguably become the most Israeli of all the varieties.
Grenache
Grenache has been around a long time in Israel, being planted in the 1880’s. It reached its highpoint in the 1970’s when Grenache Rose was Israel’s largest selling wine (after Carmel Hock and before Emerald Riesling.) Now as the country swings towards Mediterranean varieties again, new improved clones are being planted. It is early days, but the pioneer is Chateau Golan, with their Geshem blend of Mediterranean varieties, in which Grenache is the ‘G’ and the dominant variety. The Royal Reserve Geshem 2005 received 93 points from Daniel Rogov.
Malbec
Malbec was planted in Israel in the late 1880’s by Rothschild. It has since gone out of fashion as one of the varieties in Bordeaux, but is the national variety of Argentina and is the producer of distinctive wines at Cahors, in south-west France. It has only recently returned to Israel, has immense promise, but so far the main winery to come out with a wine made from the variety is Teperberg, Israel’s largest family winery. Their Terra Malbec is juicy and fruity.
Mourvedre
A Mediterranean variety, that is mainly known at Bandol, as part of the blend of Chateauneuf du Pape and in the Languedoc. It was in Israel in the 1880’s and is only making a comeback now with the new interest in Mediterranean varieties. The pioneer is Chateau Golan, on the southern Golan Heights. The ‘M’ in their ‘Geshem’ blend is Mourvedre.
Nebbiolo
The moody Nebbiolo, the grape variety of Barolo, has arrived in Israel in the last few years. Whether it can recreate the magic of its home base is too early to say. It is planted on the Golan Heights by the Golan Heights Winery. Their Gamla Nebbiolo is the first chance to make a judgement.
Pinot Noir
Every winemaker wants to make a Pinot Noir and Israel is no exception. One of the world’s premier varieties, it is only really great in Burgundy. In this instance, the pioneers with this noble variety are the Golan Heights Winery, as has so often been the case in the last 25 years. They brought Pinot Noir to Israel in the 1990’s and used it first in their champagne method Yarden Brut, and now in their Gamla Brut. After many years of trials, they eventually released their Yarden Pinot Noir, which is the best example of this variety in Israel. Many will feel this variety is not suitable for the hot and humid climate of Israel, but if planted anywhere, the Golan Heights is the right place. With the highest elevation vineyards in Israel, up to 1,200 meters above sea level, the Pinot Noir vineyards lie in the northern Golan, in the shadow of Mount Hermon, which is snow covered many months of the year. The Yarden Pinot Noir 2005 was given a score of 93 points by Daniel Rogov.
Petite Sirah
Petite Sirah, known as Durif in France, came to Israel in the 1970’s, whereupon it was used primarily to provide color to inexpensive blends. However in California and Australia there are some loyal followers to wines made from Petite Sirah, which proves ideal in hotter climates. This has recently proved true in Israel too, where more wineries are making varietal wines from this variety. It is at its best in the rolling Judean Foothills, especially from old vines. The wines produced are slightly animal in character and very full bodied.The pioneer in reviving the image of Petite Sirah is Carmel Winery, whose Appellation Petite Sirah was recently Wine of The Month in Decanter Magazine.
Petit Verdot
Petit Verdot is a variety which often does not ripen at home in Bordeaux, where it is not fashionable,
but there is no such problem in Israel. Here it has become an important part of some of Israel’s finest Bordeaux blends, including Castel Grand Vin, Carmel Limited Edition and Yatir Forest. It is very suitable to the Israeli climate producing black, hard, tannic wines. As yet it has proved mainly successful as a blender, though some have hopes of making a varietal wine from it. The best producer of Petit Verdot may well be Yatir Winery, in their Yatir Forest vineyards, in the southern Judean Hills. Apart from being the second variety in the Yatir Forest blend, Petit Verdot was also a minor player in each of the three regular Yatir red wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot Shiraz Cabernet, produced in the 2006 vintage.
Pinotage
Pinotage is the national grape variety of South Africa, being a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. What most people don’t know, is that it was created by a Jew called Abraham Perold. Conceived in 1925, it really stayed in the background until the revival of South African wine in the 1990’s, since when it has quite a loyal following. It grows successfully in the Shefela and Judean Lowlands.The pioneer of Pinotage in Israel has been Barkan Winery. An early release of Barkan Reserve Pinotage won a gold medal at Vinexpo, and they have recently reintroduced a Barkan Superieur Pinotage, adding it to their flagship range.
Sangiovese
Sangiovese is the largest planted variety in Italy, but is best known in Tuscany. Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, give clues as to this variety’s greatness. However, it has not really been a success when grown elsewhere, whether in California, Australia…… or Israel. However it is well planted on the Golan Heights, and the Golan Heights Winery’s Gamla Sangiovese, is the most prominent Israeli wine made from the grape.
Tempranillo
Spain’s national grape variety is Tempranillo, most well-known in the red wines of Roja or Ribera del Duero. It is also planted in Israel. Here the Teva Tempranillo produced by Binyamina Winery, is the main example, produced in an easy drinking style.
Zinfandel
Zinfandel, the red grape in California is planted in Israel, but often does not ripen well. There are wineries that believe it more suitable in Israel to make a White Zinfandel blush wine, but Dalton Winery in the Upper Galilee has produced a full bodied, mouth filling Zinfandel for Zin believers in Israel. It is a blockbuster wine, scoring 90 points from Daniel Rogov.
So there is no lack of variety in Israel and no lack of experimentation going on. Out of the wines mentioned, which are all of great interest, the Barkan Pinotage, Carmel Carignan, Carmel Petite Sirah, Margalit Cabernet Franc, Segal Argaman and Yarden Pinot Noir have each recently won international recognition in the form of gold medals , high scores and recommendations. Some of the other varieties, younger in Israel, will undoubtedly follow in future. For those tired of Cabernet, Merlot and Shiraz, there are some quality alternatives that are worth a try.
(This article firt appeared on Wines Israel and is reprinted with permission).
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