I just got back from another wine event at Shallots, this time featuring wines from Capcanes with winemaker Jurgen Wagner.  Capcanes only has two wines in their portfolio, which is not necessarily a bad thing: better to produce two good wines than a  range of crap wines.  But only two wines would make for a short tasting, so luckily we were able to secure two vintages to sample of the Peraj Petita and four of the Peraj Ha'abib.

The wines were all unique and very good.  We tasted the 2005, 2004, 2001, and 2000 vintages of Peraj Ha'abib.  I was very curious to taste the older Peraj Ha'abibs.  I know that they had received high scores and that these early vintages had helped establish a great reputation for the winery, but I didn't know what to expect from Capcanes wines with this much bottle age.

They were incredible.  The 2005 and 2004 were both very enjoyable, but I think both of the older vintages seemed to step it up a notch, seeming more concentrated and full-bodied.  Neither the 2000 nor 2001 stuck me as old wines either, both were very vigorous with great color, tannin and acidity.  The 2001 was a little more on the earthy side, with more funky-but-pleasant flavors of tar and asphalt coming through, while the 2000 had more generous and straight-forward fruit flavors.  One person at our table was a little turned off by the acidity of both, but I feel like this is what makes them great wines, they actually have a big backbone, and there's no lacking in fruit to back up the acidity.  They both make a strong impression on your palate.  Will the 2005 and 2004 be this good when they have this much age?  I don't have enough experience with ageing wines to say.

Jurgen was an impressive guy.  He's muy simpatico and very passionate  and knowledgeable about Capcanes and their kosher wines, and eager to discuss the wines with his customers.  Capcanes' kosher wines have played a significant role in the winery.  Even though only a small percentage of their line is kosher, it was the drive to create a very high quality kosher wine in the late 90's that helped transform the winery from marginal, bulk wine cooperative to a world class winery.  According to Jurgen, they continue to give their kosher wines special attention.
  One thing I distinctly remember is asking him if the Peraj Petita was the kosher equivalent of the Capcanes Mas Donis, which is a similar price level and similar label style.  He immediately and unequivocally said that the Peraj Petita was it's own unique wine at the winery, and totally different than the Mas Donis.  So, I really got the impression that the kosher production, even though it is only about 10% of total production, is very important at Capcanes and takes a back seat to no other wines.
  What I think people should know about Jugen and Capcanes wines in general is that they are very serious about winemaking, and committed to a particular style, and I suppose we could argue whether it is a traditional style or not.  But clearly they are trying to make Spanish wines that are unique to their region of Montsant, and wines that have the capacity to age.